Stays

4 December 2025

My One-Week Babymoon in Mauritius

Katie Merkli Destinations, Mauritius, Stays Destinations, Mauritius, Stays

I’ll find any excuse to book a holiday, but one last trip as a couple before your baby arrives feels like an extra special reason to hop on a flight and switch off for a while.

I’d always hoped I’d be able to have a ‘babymoon’ one day, but you truly don’t know if it’ll be possible until right before in case of any complications.

Getting written sign-off from a midwife is basically impossible in my experience, so as long as they verbally say you’re fit to go and you feel well enough in yourself, I think that’s enough of a green light.

Deciding when to book the babymoon

We took the trip a little earlier than originally planned so that it fit within the second trimester window. Between 26 and 27 weeks to be exact, because this was the sweet spot where I felt relatively normal, despite the inevitable symptoms of being pregnant that come and go whenever they please.

This turned out to be a great decision because by the time I got home, the third trimester was practically knocking at the door and generously came loaded with a bunch of new and familiar struggles.

Choosing the babymoon destination

Being a November babymoon, warm and sunny short-haul destinations were pretty limited. Throw Zika Virus risks into the mix and the shortlist just got cut in half.

Ultimately it was between the Middle East or Mauritius, both great options but long distances on the plane. More so Mauritius, being a 12-hour flight from London.

I love the Middle East, but eventually settled on Mauritius because I wanted to go somewhere totally new that could offer plenty of beachfront resorts that I’d heard were ideal for babymoons.

The only hiccup with Mauritius is the cost. The flights weren’t cheap, especially because I’d booked fully flexible tickets in case I couldn’t travel, and hotels were extortionate. They can be a lot cheaper in the low season, but we were travelling at one of the most popular times of year.

My babymoon hotel non-negotiables

We settled on Preskil Island Resort because of its mountainous vistas, reviews of great waters for snorkelling, and close proximity to the airport.

I didn’t put a lot of thought into the room in all honesty, but we were given the key card to a spacious ground floor garden room close to the pools and restaurants, with sliding doors that led you straight to the beach.

All of the above, plus the mile-wide marshmallow bed and walk-in shower, turned out to be real luxuries for a slow pregnant person.

All that I really wanted for this trip was to sit poolside with a book, paddle in the ocean, take some photos, feast on good food, and soak up the quality time with my husband.

I will say that the food and drink at this hotel (looking at you, mocktail menu) could have been far better, but being there on an all-inclusive basis, I appreciated the flexibility of being able to get something whenever I wanted it.

How to have a relaxing babymoon with a hint of adventure

I’m notoriously bad at doing nothing which is why 95% of our holidays have featured wildly busy itineraries, but being pregnant usually forces you to slow down whether you want to or not, so I spent most of the week horizontal.

Pro tip: secure a sun lounger close to the toilets, because babies think it’s really fun to sit on your bladder and have you shuffling towards the nearest bathroom at speed with absolutely no notice.

One great way to relax is to head to a spa, and I’d heard promising things about the one at Preskil Island Resort. I settled on a 50-minute mum-to-be massage which was super inexpensive at around £45. Highly recommend, especially on a rainy day (of which there were a few).

With all that said, there are definitely things you can do if you want a little bit of adventure. I told you I can’t help myself…

Preskil Island Resort offers a few complimentary water activities, the pedalos and kayaks probably being the most suitable options for pregnancy. They also offered 40-minute glass-bottom boat trips out to the coral reefs, which is a nice way to fill some time in your day.

If you want to go further afield they can book you onto a half-day or full-day boat trip, but personally I didn’t fancy being crammed onto a catamaran with weather that was a bit precarious.

Instead we hired a car for a day and planned an achievable route around the south of the island – see more about that on my Instagram.

With a bit of help from the hotel, we organised it so the car was delivered to Preskil Island Resort and collected the following day, so we really had to do the bare minimum.

A Mauritius babymoon in a nutshell

The flight is long, but if you can find ways to make it comfortable it’s not so bad. I took plenty of water, electrolyte sachets, a foam cushion to sit on, a neck pillow, layers in case I got too hot or too cold, and plenty of snacks.

The hotel really is where it’s at, so focus your budget on booking something that is going to cater to all the finer details that you want and need.

The weather is hit and miss even in the peak season, 50% of our trip saw glorious hot sunshine and the rest brought torrential rain.

It’s easy to get around via rental car or taxi, though taxis are a lot more expensive, so it might be more cost-effective to get a car if you plan to explore the island.

The only downside? The adventurous activities will need to wait. I’d have loved to do some hiking or taken a seaplane flight over the famous lagoon, but growing a tiny human meant these were either going to be difficult or out of the question.

And don’t forget to pack your hospital notes (or take copies) just to give you peace of mind.

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10 October 2025

An Autumn Weekend in Lisbon

Katie Merkli Destinations, Portugal, Stays City Break, Destinations, Portugal, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Ad: this post features complimentary PR stays however my opinions remain true to my experience.

Lisbon had been pinned on my mental bucket list for so long I was starting to think I’d never get there, but finally there was an opportunity to spend a few days exploring the hilly streets and riverside vistas that kept popping up on my Instagram feed.

We flew into the city not long after sunrise on a Thursday morning, and despite a longer route (thanks French ATC) and a horrendously long queue at Lisbon Airport (if you know you know), we were checking into our hotel by lunchtime.

For part one of our stay we had a room reserved at Memmo Alfama, part of the boutique Design Hotels portfolio, located in what I think is the most beautiful part of Lisbon.

Our room was fairly small but modern, designed with calming neutral tones, and housed an impressive mosaic shower space. There was also a small step-on balcony with views spanning across the city and Tagus river – a good spot to watch the cruise ships arrive and eventually sail away.

The hotel itself felt small and friendly, the perfect size for a couple of days to enjoy the facilities between stints of exploring the city.

After a quick bag drop we ventured out and got stuck into being a Lisbon tourist, getting intentionally lost while sightseeing under the scorching early October sun.

First on the agenda was trying a proper pastel de nata, aka the dreamy little custard tarts, which we bought from Manteigaria and devoured after dusting it with a sachet of cinnamon. No other pastel de nata ever lived up to this one.

After lunch at Bueno y Guapo and a lot of incline walking, we made our way back to the hotel ahead of the early sunset so we could celebrate our fourth wedding anniversary with tapas and drinks on the rooftop.

The next day we found ourselves back on the rooftop for breakfast, ordering cappuccinos and a few hot small plates to eat alongside the self-serve buffet as the city came to life below us.

We set out to explore a new part of the city in the morning, grabbing a delicious lunch at The Folks, and returned to the hotel to laze on the sun loungers that overlooked the river with a book in hand.

Despite our best efforts to enjoy a sunset drink, the wind was really picking up, so we went in search of a restaurant once the colours of the sunset began to fade and settled on a simple pizzeria called Romana Alfama.

Today we were checking out of Memmo Alfama and heading to a new spot in the Cais do Sodre district called Dare Lisbon River.

One of two Dare Lisbon hotels, the other called House, this spot felt more like your typical city hotel hidden amongst the surrounding buildings. Our room on the third floor was filled with natural light and a big comfy bed to sink into later on, with views looking out across the Time Out Market below and the river beyond.

We experienced a warm welcome on arrival with a ton of great recommendations from the reception team, digested in their communal dining space with a cup of coffee.

First we hopped on the 15E tram and headed to our furthest point, Belém, to try another custard tart from their famous Pastéis de Belém shop (I found this one a bit too crispy) and see the architecture and monuments along the waterfront.

Our next stop on the tram route was the LX Factory, a vibrant area filled with shops, market stalls and quirky restaurants. We ate proper Portuguese piri piri chicken at Chickinho.

For the evening, we boarded a quick ferry over to Almada and joined the hundreds who’d rocked up with their wine picnics to watch the sun dip behind the ocean line with the iconic bridge becoming a silhouette in the process.

There were a couple of popular seafood restaurants here but they were rammed, so we caught the ferry back to Lisbon and ate at a local Mexican called Murals Cantina close to the nightlife of Pink Street.

Our final day was almost a full one, so we started it with what we do best – breakfast. I’ll admit I did miss the outdoor, poolside views of Memmo Alfama, but the spread of food was pleasant and the tranquillity of the dining area was needed after a busy few days.

Today was all about tram spotting, cafe hopping and shopping. We visited the botanical gardens as it was free to enter due to a public holiday, picked up a couple of traditional Portuguese-inspired tile coasters for our home, and took a short tram ride back down towards the hotel.

Lunch was a tasty but simple one at Honest Greens, which felt like the salad equivalent to Nando’s in the UK.

Finally we found ourselves at the Java rooftop bar for a mocktail, before it was time to grab our luggage and get a car to the airport. Bolt is so cheap in Lisbon, and Uber isn’t much more, so I’d definitely recommend travelling that way for ease.

See more from my Lisbon trip on my Instagram Highlight.

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3 June 2025

4 Days in Mexico City

Katie Merkli Destinations, Mexico, Stays Destinations, Mexico, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

After an incredible three days in Oaxaca, we reluctantly left to catch a short flight to Mexico City, where we’d spend the second half of our trip exploring a city that had been on my bucket list for years.

The energy in this second city quickly shifted up a gear, with crazy traffic from the moment we hopped in the Uber and made our way towards Centro Histórico (Downtown) to find our hotel.

I had a few hotels on the list for this holiday, but settled on Downtown Mexico by Design Hotels for its central location and rooftop pool.

Sitting bang in the middle of the downtown area surrounded by the city’s impressive architecture, we settled into our Colonial Queen room that had unbelievably high ceilings and a terracotta interior, acting as a peaceful escape from the chaos outside.

On the first floor they have a restaurant, where we devoured the tastiest Mexican breakfast each morning. Choosing a hot option from the à la carte menu as our coffee cooled, we were then free to roam the continental buffet until we were almost too full to move.

Moving up to the top floor, there’s a bar with tasty small bites and a selection of drinks on the menu, which you can enjoy on the terrace or around the corner beside the pool. My go-to was their (extra) spicy margarita, which was garnished with a fiery chilli pepper.

What I quickly realised was that Mexico City is absolutely gigantic, and there was zero chance we’d get to see all the districts we’d mapped out, even with affordable Ubers.

Here’s a quick breakdown of where we visited and when:

Day one: Downtown for lunch, an afternoon in Condesa, and Roma Norte for dinner

Day two: a day trip in the morning (more on that later), an afternoon at the hotel pool, and Downtown for dinner

Day three: Coyoacán for lunch and Polanco for dinner

Day four: Roma Norte for a morning walk and an afternoon at the hotel pool before flying home

Coyoacán was without a doubt my favourite district, with Condesa in close second. I’d say my least favourite was Polanco only because it lacked the historic charm with all its designer shops and polished streets.

Onto the best bit – the food. I’d say Oaxaca remains on top for cuisine, but we enjoyed some great meals in CDMX too including:

Cheesy chilaquiles and tlayudas at Restaurante Xaachila (Downtown)
Super cheap tacos with the locals at Los Especiales (Downtown)
The famous Pastor tacos at Tacos El Huequito (Downtown)
A selection of local dishes at La Casa de Toño en Zona Rosa (Roma Norte)
Iced coffee from Cafe Tormenta (Roma Norte)
Ice cream from Joe Gelato (Roma Norte)
Guacamole and tortilla chips at La Calaca (Coyoacán)
Jarocho blend coffee from Café El Jarocho (Coyoacán)
Carne tacos at La Gloria y El Golfo (Polanco)

As I mentioned, on day two we decided to go on a half-day trip to San Juan Teotihuacán, home to the ancient pyramids of Mexico. We booked this through a friend’s contact but the company was called Vive Vuela Teotihuacán.

Our driver picked us up from the hotel at 5am, and we arrived at the site where our hot air balloon would take flight just before sunrise.

Stepping into the basket with a few others, the balloon swiftly levitated, finding space in the sky alongside tons of other colourful balloons. We spent just over 30 minutes circling the pyramids. I thought I’d be scared of the height and lack of security, but it was magical up there.

Once back on the ground, we were whisked off to a nearby restaurant for a traditional Mexican breakfast, before exploring the grounds of the pyramids at our leisure for the next couple of hours.

The trip cost around £130pp (more if you purchased their drone footage, which we did) and I can safely say it was a worthy investment to level up our experience of Mexico City. We both loved it and would do another hot air balloon flight in a heartbeat.

That wraps up our Mexican adventure! If you haven’t already, have a read of my last blog post sharing what we got up to in Oaxaca.

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14 May 2025

3 Days in Oaxaca City

Katie Merkli Destinations, Mexico, Stays Destinations, Mexico, Stays

After an 11-hour flight from London to Mexico City, a few hours’ sleep in an airport hotel, and a short sunrise flight that gave us jaw-dropping views of an active volcano, we touched down in Oaxaca City ready to start part one of our Mexico trip.

I’d first heard about this colourful part of the world through a British TV show called Race Across the World (if you know you know) and ever since it had been firmly on my every-growing list of places to travel to.

Arriving bright and early via a shared airport Colectivo bus, we checked into our ground floor Airbnb. Located in a spot that was walking distance to the city’s best sights, this tranquil home featured a bedroom, ensuite bathroom, and open plan living and kitchen area which had a partially exposed roof to let in the light and warmth of day outside.

It did also let in a fair amount of rain when a violent thunderstorm rolled in one night, but apart from a bit of bedroom flooding it drained away as fast as it fell.

The best bit was the rooftop garden, which I didn’t actually know was there until my husband went exploring at the crack of dawn to try and work out why someone was setting off fireworks at sunrise (it turns out this was all part of the Easter celebrations).

The rooftop was filled with potted palms and looked out at the most incredible view of the mountains surrounding the valley.

Days one and two were spent exploring all of the vibrant streets and smoky markets the city had to offer, whilst tasting a ton of the best Mexican cuisine along the way.

Oaxaca is known for its food, some of the best spots we visited included:

Eggs and mole at PAN:AM
Green enchiladas served with lashings of quesillo at Terranova
Passionfruit Mezcalitas with a rooftop view of Templo de Santo Domingo at La Reuca
Tamales at Zandunga Sabor Istmeño
Mexican coffee at Amá Terraza
Oaxaca hot chocolate with pan de yema bread at La Abuelita
Tlayudas at Casa Taviche
Jamaica Mezcalitas at Vaca Marina
Eggs and avocado toast at Cafet Espacio Cosijo
Carnitas tacos at La Popular
Fresh cakes and buns from Panadería La Bamby

On our third and final day we booked a Get Your Guide day trip to Hierve el Agua, the nature reserve that had featured on the TV show I mentioned.

The tour started at 9am and on route to the reserve we stopped at a bakery to try some of Oaxaca’s most loved breads, purchasing some of their famous hot chocolate to go with it. You can get the hot chocolate with milk or water, we chose water to try the proper local way and it was surprisingly rich.

At Hierve el Agua we had three hours to spend however we wanted, and keen to see as much as possible, we started with the extended hike that circles underneath the petrified waterfalls. It took around 45-minutes and was a bit challenging in the heat but absolutely doable if you’re alright with steps. There is a shorter version for those who want to see the main waterfall and head back up in about half the time.

In desperate need of a place to cool off, we sunk into the natural infinity pools that flow off the top of the mountain. The views were out of this world and the water was the perfect temperature to float in for a while.

Before leaving we grabbed a bite to eat from one of the many vendors, sharing memalitas and quesadillas that were cooked fresh in front of our eyes, and taking a cup of juicy mango sprinkled with tajin for the road.

On our way back to Oaxaca City we made one final stop at a Mezcal distillery. First we learned all about how Mezcal is produced, it’s a fascinating and lengthy process to say the least, and then our tour guide served up countless shots of Mezcal for us to try. I reckon we tried around 15 samples, some crystal clear and others a creamy blend of sweet flavours.

This tour was incredible and such good value for money at approximately £38 per person, highly recommend!

Sadly it was time to say goodbye to Oaxaca City, but part two of our Mexico trip awaited us.

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20 March 2025

Cruising Through the Norwegian Fjords

Katie Merkli Destinations, Norway Cruise, Destinations, Europe, Norway, Stays

Booking a cruise was never on my bucket list, something about floating along in a building-sized vessel at the mercy of the ocean unnerved me, but in April 2024 I found myself onboard a Princess Cruises ship.

It all changed when we were planning how to celebrate my mum’s 60th birthday. We love travel so a holiday made sense, but it was only when my mum suggested a simple all-in-one sort of adventure that we landed on an eight day cruise to Norway.

Booking it six months out, we were frantically trying to educate ourselves on where to go, what company to book with, what room type, and what room location to choose. I’ve since learned that cruise culture is a huge thing and honestly, the Facebook groups were a big help.

Choosing the destination was the next hurdle because everywhere was appealing, but given my mum’s love of mountains and water it made sense to venture east towards the Norwegian Fjords – and wow what a good decision that was!

Day one: at sea

Arriving at the ship for lunchtime, we boarded, found our suitcases waiting outside our rooms, and very quickly set out to explore the many levels of the boat. I immediately felt like I had sea legs but I think it was more of a mental thing, considering we’d not yet been untied from the port.

At around 3pm we headed up to the deck for a very damp and breezy Southampton sailaway. Prosecco in hand and North Face coat hood firmly up, it was time to wave goodbye to the UK and raise a glass to the beginning of my mum’s birthday trip.

Day two: at sea

Today was all about exploring the many restaurants, cafes, and bars of the Sky Princess. The ocean was a little choppy as we made our way over the open sea, but nothing horrendous thankfully.

We booked with the Princess Plus package, which meant we had two meals in the premium restaurants, two premium desserts (such as massive ice cream sundaes), and 15 alcoholic drinks per day per person throughout the trip.

With Princess you also get a medallion to wear or carry around with you, which is used for all your dining, drinks, and room access to save the need for cards and cash.

Day three: fjord sail

On our first proper day in Norway we were meant to arrive at our first stop, Haugesund, but unfortunately strong winds meant we couldn’t dock.

Instead the captain diverted into one of the beautiful nearby fjords, where we were able to enjoy the facilities of the ship whilst looking out at the mountains and waterfalls.

This also gave us plenty more time to explore the boat, enjoy some of the entertainment, and of course sample plenty more of the items on the many menus.

Day four: Alesund

As we woke, we were gently sailing into the port of Alesund with nothing but the peaceful hum of the boat as it prepared to dock.

Alesund is a small but beautiful town with plenty of shops, streets, and eateries to explore – or for the more adventurous, hikes up to breathtaking viewpoints.

As we only had a few hours we walked up to the Aksla Viewpoint, and then caught a bus over to the foot of Sukkertoppen Mountain for a challenging but doable hike to the top.

We did our fair share of steps that day so definitely indulged in the culinary delights onboard that night.

Day five: Olden

Another slow morning of enjoying my coffee on the balcony, we arrived in a lovely little destination called Olden.

We first took the bus to Loen and bought tickets for the Loen Skylift, which takes you right to the top of the mountain. Here we got to spend an hour or so trudging through snow and fighting off the biting winds to snap photos of the most insane vista.

When back at ground level, we enjoyed a long walk through the fields and hiking tracks, inhaling a makeshift buffet picnic on the way, before getting back on the ship for what turned out to be the most beautiful sailaway of the cruise.

Day six: Skjolden

Next it was time to explore Skjolden, which became my favourite stop of the entire voyage.

Disembarking with the hoards of other tourists, we set foot towards the mountains and spent hours racking up steps, enjoying the warmth of the spring sun, and soaking in the scenic sights.

A few groups booked onto some water sport activities, but we were happy to just bask in the peace of this gorgeous corner of the world.

As we sailed away once again, the sunset cast a golden orange glow over the ship and the still turquoise waters beneath which was nothing short of magic.

Day seven: Stavanger

It was time to leave the ship for the last time before heading home. It was a hot day in the city of Stavanger, to the point where people were frantically trying to purchase sunscreen believe it or not.

After shuffling around the pretty and colourful streets, we spent the afternoon poolside on the boat with a flow of cocktails to compliment our lunch. I definitely didn’t expect to be sunbathing in Norway in April, let alone come home with tan lines!

Day eight: at sea

The following day we were at sea once again, making one final use of all that that ship had to offer. Not that there was anything but ocean to see, but I especially loved circling around the fitness track on the top deck.

Before we hit the hay in what were the most comfortable beds of all time, we feasted on a delicious dinner and played another competitive game of UNO, which gets messy after a few espresso martinis…

Day nine: Southampton

Early in the morning I took one last top deck stroll as Southampton came into view, before devouring another buffet breakfast to fuel me for the long drive home.

Despite a few rocky moments with the waves and slight cabin fever during the days at sea, I really enjoyed this trip and definitely wouldn’t rule out another cruise.

See more from Norway on my Instagram.

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15 February 2025

A Long Weekend Exploring Paris

Katie Merkli Destinations, France Destinations, Europe, France, Hotels, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

I first visited Paris in 2018, and it’s fair to say it was a humbling experience to be staying an hour’s walk outside of the centre with a very small travel budget for the three day trip.

We saw the key sights and enjoyed our time there, but that small budget meant awkward encounters in restaurants. I distinctly recall the look on a waiter’s face when we asked to share a French onion soup with two spoons, and then asked for our one euro in change.

My second visit was different, another long weekend at a similar time of year, but this time with my mum and armed with a more realistic travel budget knowing that city prices are higher than ever.

Looking for somewhere more centrally located to stay, I settled on Hotel Etoile Maillot, a boutique hotel located near to the Arc de Triomphe that ticked every box for our mother-daughter trip.

Day one

We flew out of London Heathrow Airport at 8:10am and just 50 minutes later we were descending into Charles de Gaulle Airport.

Our first day was spent exploring some of the top Paris tourist attractions, starting with the Arc de Triomphe and winding our way through the Parisian streets lined with designer stores until we reached the Eiffel Tower.

Not that you can really call this lunch, but we devoured pistachio cream filled crêpes at La Pistacherie, fighting off a few confident pigeons in the process, before arriving at the foot of the tower.

After the early start we were lacking energy, so ventured back to the hotel for a quick rest before dinner at Le Coq. Later moving across to a cosy table inside Café du Trocadéro, we sipped on cocktails with a view of the Eiffel Tower as it glittered in the drizzle.

Day Two

The day started with a slow wakeup in the comfort of my marshmallow duvet, Nespresso coffee in hand, planning the itinerary for our remaining two days in Paris.

First on the agenda was breakfast, a quick croissant and cappuccino in a nearby boulangerie, before arriving at the Eiffel Tower in the hope we could buy some last-minute tickets that claimed to be sold out online.

Luck was on our side, as we found ourselves on the top floor of the Eiffel Tower fighting the biting winds and seeking shelter from the iron structure. It’s a view that doesn’t disappoint, even on a grey day.

Next we began the long walk down to the Notre-Dame Cathedral, hopping into Le Parisien for a croque monsieur to warm up and peeking inside various fromageries and wine shops on route.

Finding ourselves alongside the River Seine in a fleeting moment of sunshine, we passed the Musée du Louvre and black and white pillars of Domaine National du Palais-Royal. In desperate need of somewhere to sit and thaw, we joined the lengthy queue of Angelina to taste their famous hot chocolate.

In the evening we revisited the Eiffel Tower for the final time, finding a table in nearby Chez Ribe for red wine, cheese, and French bread. It’s not a restaurant I’d recommend as such, but after a long day of walking we were desperate to get off our feet.

Day three

Feeling the effects of the distance we’d already covered since arriving, we soaked up all the little luxuries of Hotel Etoile Maillot for one last morning.

Our final breakfast was enjoyed at The French Bastard, a quirky boulangerie not too far from the hotel. Fuelled by coffee and warm bread, we set off in search of Montmarte.

Set upon a hill with a view spanning the city, we circled Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, browsed the local shops, and enjoyed a glass of champagne in the square as tourists and locals flocked past in huge numbers.

It was time to head back to London, but having racked up almost 80,000 steps in those few days, we were ready to return to our home comforts and reminisce on what had been such a lovely time spent together.

Find more Paris content on my Instagram.

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3 February 2025

A Short Layover in Singapore

Katie Merkli Destinations, Singapore, Stays Destinations, Singapore, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Singapore is one of those places I hoped I’d one day visit on my way to or from another destination, just so I could spend a whirlwind layover getting to know a city that was very far from home.

With the post-holiday blues already creeping in after leaving the Philippines, I was thrilled that I’d decided to break up the long journey back to London by hopping off the plane at Changi Airport to spend two nights in Singapore.

Roughly translating to a 40-hour layover between the two flights, we didn’t have much time to waste.

Arriving at around 8pm, first on the agenda was heading to the Rain Vortex located inside the Jewel. You can easily access this from whichever terminal you arrive into or fly from, but check the timings before you visit so you don’t arrive to find it shut down for maintenance like we did.

Spoiler alert: luckily I managed to see it before I left for London, but it definitely wasted a chunk of our limited time in the city by not doing the research.

After that mistake, we fled towards the city in a Grab taxi, checked into the DAO by Dorsett hotel, dumped our bags, and immediately headed back out into the surprisingly bearable humidity (because nothing compares to Japan in the summer) to explore whilst we still had a slither of energy remaining.

After roaming around the waterfront and soaking in the sights of the spectacular Marina Bay Sands Hotel, it dawned on us that it was already 1am. One thing about this city is that it feels incredibly safe and quiet, which isn’t something I’ve experienced anywhere else.

The next morning we loaded up on the buffet breakfast and made our way to the starting point of our four-hour city bike tour.

Getting to see so much of the city with a group of other travellers was a lot of fun, and despite the heat, it didn’t feel too challenging thanks to the regular sightseeing stops factored into the itinerary.

After racing along a section of the Formula 1 Marina Bay Street Circuit and visiting a few of the city’s main highlights, including the skyscrapers of the waterfront and the bustling markets of Chinatown, we made one last stop in Little India to refuel with a freshly served sugar cane juice and spicy vegetarian samosa.

After the tour we checked out some of the street food markets to taste more of the local delicacies, and later ended up at the hotel’s infinity pool for a quick dip as the light began to fade.

For our one full evening in Singapore, we obviously had to visit Gardens by the Bay.

Starting with the two garden domes, we moved onto the Supertree OCBC Skyway. Somehow we got our timings just right and managed to be up there for the first of the two evening lights shows that take place at 7:45pm and 8:45pm, even avoiding what felt like a looming thunderstorm that could unload at any moment.

I’ve got to admit I felt pretty wobbly up there as the wind gently shook the walkway, but you’re so dazzled by the twinkling trees and towering landscape of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel that it’s not hard to find yourself distracted from the height.

To end the night we watched the 9pm water and light show on the waterfront and took the lift inside the Marina Bay Sands Hotel up to LAVO, an Italian restaurant and bar. By some sheer luck we managed to grab a table on the terrace, complete with an unbelievable city view to devour alongside a pizza and Singapore Sling cocktails.

The next morning it was time to say our goodbyes to Singapore and return to reality, so we begrudgingly packed our things and prepared for the 14-hour flight home.

But not before seeing that Rain Vortex…

From our experience, the best thing to do is check-in your baggage and make your way to the Jewel before going to your gate. You can do this no matter which terminal you’re flying from, and once you’re there you only need 30-minutes tops to see it and snap a few photos. That said, you could easily lose a few hours with all that’s on offer inside.

Overall I loved Singapore, and there’s plenty more still to see if I end up returning via another layover one day.

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21 January 2025

Travelling the Philippines: My Two-Week Itinerary

Katie Merkli Destinations, Philippines, Stays Destinations, Philippines, Stays

Ad: this post contains experiences and accommodation that formed a partially-gifted partnership with Keelooma Expeditions.

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

I can’t believe I actually made it to my ultimate bucket list destination.

I originally had tickets booked for May 2020, but we all know what happened that year. Fast forward four years, and I was sat at my laptop rebooking those flights to paradise.

It can be tricky to plan which of the 7000+ islands you want to visit, but blog posts, Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, and Facebook groups helped me out a lot when mapping out my Philippines itinerary.

Now that it’s over I can confirm this seriously was the trip of a lifetime, so I’m excited to share all the details of my 14-day holiday in the Philippines to help others plan their trip and document the memories.

Days one & two: London to Cebu

We booked via Singapore Airlines to fly on Christmas Day, stopping over in Changi Airport for a few hours before connecting onto Cebu, where we eventually arrived on Boxing Day. It’s pretty surreal flying on Christmas Day to say the least.

As we were flying out again the next morning, we chose to stay in an apartment called Express Condotel as it was close to the airport. It was a basic room but had access to a large swimming pool, so turned out to be a good place to crash for one night.

Day three: Cebu to Coron

Early in the morning we ventured back to the airport via a Grab taxi (which is like Uber) and caught our short 90-minute Philippines Airlines flight to Coron. This was our first taste of the notoriously slow-paced lifestyle in the Philippines as the flight was an hour late to leave, but before we knew it we were inside a small propellor plane soaring towards the mountainous province of Palawan.

We had organised for an airport pick up for ease and later checked into the Coron Soleil Garden Resort. Unfortunately our room had a power issue so we were downgraded to the neighbouring Coron Soleil Express Hotel, but we were refunded the difference and still got to enjoy the facilities.

We spent our afternoon exploring the streets or Coron and grabbing lunch at Pacifico, before making the steep and sweaty hike up to the Hollywood sign dupe of Mount Tapyas for panoramic views of the surrounding islands.

After a much needed dip in the hotel pool, we wandered down to Sharky’s for dinner and a bit of live music.

Day four: Island Hopping

Today was the start of a very big adventure. I had heard about these overnight island hopping expeditions so decided to kick off my trip with a two-night, three-day Keelooma voyage, leaving Coron and travelling down to El Nido.

It was a slow start to get everyone checked in, transferred to Coron Port, onto the boat, and given the all clear to set sail, but a few hours later we were on our way.

The boat was of typical Philippines style, narrow and tall but with wooden beams and poles spanning out on either side for stability.

We spent the day cruising through the waters of Coron Bay, getting to know the others on the boat, hopping off at several snorkelling spots, and feasting on an unbelievable lunch of fresh local food that was cooked and served onboard.

As the sun set we arrived to a new island, spotting the wooden huts we’d be sleeping in that night. The real fun of the expedition was swimming to the island from the boat with our bags following behind in a kayak, but if you’re not a strong swimmer you can hop in one of the kayaks with the Keelooma crew.

Each hut had bedding and a mosquito net, with access to shared toilets, chilly rain showers, and a sheltered common area where we gathered for another epic buffet and plenty of rum and cokes during a happy hour that didn’t seem to end.

Day five: Island Hopping

Today was my 30th birthday and wow what a place to wake up. I managed to catch the sunrise and drink my coffee on the beach as monkeys played nearby, before swimming back to the boat for a tasty buffet breakfast.

This day followed the same fun agenda, packed with breathtaking snorkelling sites and an indulgent spread of food shared with a great bunch of people.

I jumped off the boat into crystal clear lagoons, wandered through jungles to reach remote beaches, and even got presented with a watermelon carved to read “Happy 30th b-day Katie” which was so sweet of the crew.

Arriving at our second island stay, the ocean floor was dotted with pink and yellow starfish.

We settled into our new spacious hut, checked out the facilities (aka bucket showers), ate more food, got together for some karaoke, and stargazed underneath the clearest sky I’ve ever seen.

Day six: Island Hopping & El Nido

We were off to a slower start today as a lot of people had fallen sick after eating a coconut found on the beach. Who knew they could do so much damage if they’re not fresh.

Eventually we were paddling back out to the boat and continued on our adventure, stopping at another handful of locations. Our very last stop of this day was postcard perfect, a beautiful end to an unforgettable few days.

We left the boat, were greeted with traditional Filipino dancing, and hopped in an old school American-style bus to travel to El Nido, where we said our goodbyes and settled into the gorgeous Charlie’s Hotel for an early night.

Day seven: El Nido

It was now New Year’s Eve, and we took it upon ourselves to have the most adventurous end to 2024 by renting a kayak and travelling out to Paradise Beach on Cadlao Island.

For a good 90-minutes we were alone, just soaking up the ocean breeze and the heat of the December sun under the swaying palm fronds. On our way back we heard a turtle come up for air and just caught a glimpse before it sunk back beneath the still water.

Once back on land we grabbed a quick bakery lunch and caught the last guided El Nido Canopy Walk of the afternoon. It’s quite expensive for how quick it is to do, but the views didn’t disappoint.

Finally we took a trike to Las Cabanas beach for the last sunset of the year, sipping beers by the water as the sun dipped behind the mountain.

Later we met up with some of our new friends from the Keelooma tour to party the night away in El Nido town. It was crazy, with fireworks filling the skies at midnight and dancing in the streets until almost 3am.

Day eight: El Nido to Bohol

It was time to leave Palawan and head southeast to Bohol, again with a delayed but picturesque AirSwift flight.

We checked into Panglao’s Diving Addiction Resort, a hotel that honestly was a bit of a catfish, and took a tuktuk down to Alona Beach for the most unbelievable sunset that turned the sky shades of coral pink.

I was feeling unwell with some sort of nasty flu, so for dinner we grabbed a quick pizza at Napoleat and caught up on some much needed rest.

Day nine: Bohol

There was a lot to see in Bohol but only one day to do so, so we organised a private diver costing approximately £30 who picked us up at 9am, took us to a few must see places, and dropped us back just before 5pm.

First we visited Loboc River and hopped on a 45-minute private boat cruise, taking us up and down part of the river for approximately £15. Further down the road you will pay twice the price for an hour cruise with lunch.

Via a drive through the Bilar Man Made Forest, next we arrived at the Tarsier Conservation Area, which is a brilliant place to see the tiny creatures in a habitat that lets them sleep in the trees without tourists prodding at them.

For our last stop of the day we drove onto the chocolate hills, a gorgeous vista of green domes that turn brown in the dry season.

Arriving back at Alona Beach just in time for another perfect sunset, we sat on the beach with drinks bought from 7-Eleven and went for dinner at Kissa, a Japanese restaurant in the town.

Day ten: Bohol to Siquijor

We had an afternoon ferry to catch but managed to squeeze in a few hours of sunbathing at Alona Beach beforehand.

Our ferry eventually departed a little later than planned but we had a very pleasant journey to Siquijor, taking just under two hours. I was honestly relieved as we couldn’t see out of the windows from our seats and I’d heard these ferry journeys can be hell on earth in bad weather.

We caught another tuktuk and hurtled towards our new accommodation, Bermuda Triangle Bungalows, which is a slice of tropical paradise in a prime location with some of Siquijor’s best restaurants just a short walk away. On night one we dined at Luca Loko which I can’t recommend enough.

Day eleven: Siquijor

In desperate need of a day with minimal plans, we took ourselves to Paliton Beach for a morning of swimming, snorkelling, and sunbathing, and tuktuk’d our way south to Tubod Marine Reserve for the afternoon. This is a fantastic spot for snorkelling alongside some incredible marine life, and the sunset put on a hell of a show for us once again.

For dinner we ate close to our hotel at Bahar Bar, a gorgeous looking restaurant with live music and a great menu.

Day thirteen: Siquijor

Initially we’d contemplated heading out to do some more exploring, but our final few days ahead were going to be full on and often we forget this is a holiday and we’re also meant to relax, so we spontaneously found ourselves two sunbeds at Republika Beach Bar and stayed here from breakfast until sunset.

Day fourteen: Siquijor to Cebu

Sadly it was time to leave the healing island that I had grown to love so much, and we had a five-hour ferry journey to Cebu ahead of us.

Luck was on our side again, so it was a smooth ride with a short stop in Bohol on the way. To make the journey more comfortable we paid a small amount more for business class, which also meant we didn’t have to pay more for our baggage on arrival.

It felt like we were wasting prime island time in the city, but as ferries and flights can be heavily delayed or cancelled, it wasn’t worth the risk of not making our flight out of Cebu the next day.

We spent our last afternoon in the Philippines at the ninth-floor pool of the Citadines Hotel, grabbed some local Filipino food nearby, and repacked our backpacks for what felt like the hundredth time.

The next day, it was time to fly out of paradise to spend 36 hours in Singapore.

Tips & hacks for the Philippines

Cash is king, very few places accepted card
Expect delays, flights and ferries especially
It’s not the cheapest part of Asia but it’s still cheaper than western countries
Pack a lot of bug repellent and get the strong stuff
Expect to pay small amounts for tourist attraction entries, such as marine reserves and waterfalls
A lot of tuktuk and trike journeys have set rates based on distance
Be careful with food and drink, you only want to consume purified water
Tipping culture is fairly inexpensive with 10-15% being reasonable for most restaurants

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6 October 2024

A Japan Adventure: My Two-Week Itinerary

Katie Merkli Destinations, Japan Destinations, Japan, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Even though Japan had always intrigued me, it had never been somewhere I’d really given too much thought. But when looking at options for a summer holiday to celebrate my husband’s birthday, Japan was top of the list for him, so just a few months later we were climbing out of Heathrow Airport on a 14-hour flight to Tokyo.

In this post I share what we got up to in each of the below locations, though our two-week itinerary was pretty full on, so if I skip over any details and you’d love to know more then take a look at my Instagram highlight and feel free to reach out with any questions.

Tokyo and Kamakura – 2 nights
Kanazawa – 2 nights
Kyoto – 3 nights
Osaka and Nara – 2 nights
Lake Kawaguchi (Mount Fuji) – 1 night
Tokyo – 3 nights

Tokyo (part one)

After leaving London on Saturday morning, we eventually landed in Tokyo at 7am on the Sunday. Somehow we needed to find the energy to power through the entire day to get ahead of jet lag, but luckily in a city like Tokyo there’s no shortage of things to do to keep busy.

After checking into LANDABOUT Tokyo, located in the Ueno district, we set off into the city to explore Ueno Park, Sensō-ji Temple, and the district surrounding the Tokyo Skytree, before sitting down for dinner in an incredible little ramen spot called Hakata Ramen Ichiban.

By the time we slumped into bed, we’d been awake for 35 hours and walked almost 30,000 steps. It’s safe to say day one felt equal measures overwhelming and incredible.

Kamakura

Kicking off our second day, we had some breakfast in the hotel before taking an hour-long train down to Kamakura, a beachside city that has tons to offer.

We only had the day here but managed to see the giant Daibutsu, the gardens of Hasedera, the gorgeous grounds of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, and ate some tasty bao buns at Kamakura Tenshin on Komachi-dori Street. You can explore on foot, or there’s a local train that can take you around a few stops.

When we got back to Tokyo, we walked for three hours through the city just taking in the sights, and refuelled with some cheap and simple food in one of the train station restaurants called Kiraku Soba.

Kanazawa

We weren’t completely sure if we’d be able to leave Tokyo easily because of a looming typhoon that was due to arrive any day, but it was moving so slowly that for now our first bullet train remained scheduled.

We watched central Japan fly past the windows for almost three hours, eventually reaching the city of Kanazawa at midday and checking into our new hotel, SOKI Kanazawa. I thought this hotel had a pool but it was actually a Japanese Onsen, aka a naked bath, and that’s one tradition unfortunately I couldn’t bring myself to try.

The humidity in Kanazawa somehow felt even more suffocating than in Tokyo, but we pushed through to explore Omicho Market, Oyama Shrine, Kanazawa castle, the Kenroku-en gardens, and the Nagamachi district which is home to traditional samurai houses.

That night we found a real hidden gem noodle bar in a tiny underground spot called Aburaya, before wandering across the hall to an empty bar for a drink. That drink then evolved into electric darts, karaoke, and Japanese computer games with the owner of the bar.

The next morning we went down to breakfast, not realising that it was a traditional Japanese bento box. This is obviously something amazing to experience, but because we don’t eat much seafood, truthfully it was a bit of a challenge especially that early in the day.

On our final full day in Kanazawa, we explored the machiya houses of the Nishi Chaya, Kazuemachi Chaya, and Higashi Chaya districts, ate tasty Tonkatsu for lunch, tried the famous gold leaf ice cream, and had a quiet dinner at an amazing ramen spot called Yuzuki Fine Ramen.

Kyoto

With the typhoon still at bay, luckily our second bullet train was also unaffected, so we took a couple of short trains down to Kyoto and checked into our new accommodation, a traditional Japanese Machiya house called Kanjakuan.

The walls of these houses are paper thin so you have to creep around like a mouse in the early and late hours, but it was such a fun experience and gave us a good opportunity to get some mid-holiday washing done.

We took a train over to Arashiyama and spent the afternoon winding our way through the monkey forest and bamboo forest, stopping off for a craft beer to escape the downpour that left us drenched from head to toe.

Back in Kyoto, we used Google Maps to find a random restaurant called Non-Chan that served Okomoniyaki, a local savoury pancake dish that became one of my favourite meals of the trip. Here we sat up at the grills and spoke with the chefs for hours, as both of them wanted to practice their English post-university studies.

Day two in Kyoto was my husband’s birthday, so we started the day with the famous fluffy matcha pancakes at A Happy Pancake, and then ticked Nishiki Market, Pontocho Alley, the Gion Geisha district, Hōkan-ji Temple, Kiyomizu-dera, and the 1000s of tori gates at Fushimi Inari Taisha off our list.

It was a very full-on day, especially in that heat, but we were able to put our feet up for a few hours at dinner, where we devoured a 12-course Michelin Star menu at Muromachi Wakuden. Finding somewhere that offered a vegetarian option took a bit of research, but it was well worth it to experience local cuisine.

On our final full day in Kyoto, we had a slow start. It had been a rough night with the rain because of the typhoon, but we eventually made it out of the house to devour the crispiest Michelin Guide gyozas at Motoi, finished off with a few doughnuts at Koe.

In the afternoon we took a bus to visit the golden temple, Kinkaku-ji, and walked for hours through the city before settling on another bowl of ramen at Ichiryu Manbai Teramachi for dinner. I’d recommend pre-booking restaurants in Kyoto as they often have long lines and only seat so many people.

Osaka

Thankfully the typhoon kept its distance from our planned route so we could continue onto Osaka the next morning. Here we checked into our new hotel, Osaka Resol Trinity, which whilst beautiful was admittedly quite a way from the heart of the city. This was another hotel with an Onsen, again I didn’t have the courage to brave it.

It was however close to Osaka Castle which was our first stop, before heading down to see the crazy sights of Tsūtenkaku and Dotonburi. This part of our trip was all about food, beer, arcades, and walking endlessly through the busy city streets. For dinner, we ate more gyozas at Gyozaoh.

Nara

Close to Osaka is Nara, a city home to free-roaming deer who bow at your feet when you offer them crackers. Though let’s just say some were friendlier than others, and it wasn’t just the crackers that got nibbled.

In Nara you also have the Tōdai-ji temple that houses an enormous Buddha, and plenty of other stunning temples that surround it. We ate teriyaki chicken and rice at Todaiji Emado Chaya, explored a little further, and then ventured back to Osaka for more of those savoury pancakes at Kohaku.

Lake Kawaguchi

Next it was time to move on to a more rural stop. Taking a subway train, a bullet train to Mishima, and finally a pre-bookable bus to reach Lake Kawaguchi, we checked into our (very basic) hotel called HAOSTAY that had incredible views of Mount Fuji.

Sadly though, we had no idea where Mount Fuji was because the weather was so awful it was completely invisible. We attempted a walk around the lake but the rain was too heavy, so we went for a few drinks and had an early dinner at ラーメンふくちゃんRamen Fuku-chan instead.

The next morning the rain had passed, so we walked the lake in the hope the clouds would lift enough to show us even a small glimpse of the mountain. By the time we had to leave to go back to Tokyo, we could see just enough of its outline, with the top momentarily appearing as we sped away from the bus station. If you get to see it without any cloud, you’re super lucky!

Tokyo (part two)

Back in a new area of Tokyo for our final leg of the trip, we checked into our hotel, LOF Shimbashi. The location was great but I have big regrets about booking the smallest room in the building because by this point our luggage was bursting at the seams and we needed space to get organised.

We spent the rest of the day walking around the outskirts of the Imperial Palace and the Ginza district, ordering a beer with a view from the Floor 11 Pyonpyonsya GINZA UNA restaurant, and eating our way through all sorts of dishes at the Kura revolving sushi restaurant. This alone is a Japanese experience like no other.

The next day we took a train to Shinjuku, racking up steps and taking in the sights and lights of the city that is constantly buzzing. We ordered wagyu burgers at Shogun, strolled through the park of Meiji Jingu, and visited Takeashita Street and Harajuku.

Our last stop of the day was Shibuya Crossing. You’ve got to experience it on the ground, but I’d also recommend heading up high for the best views. We booked to have dinner and cocktails at BAO Ce La Vie which is 17 floors up and offers a more distant view of the crossing with just a few other skyscrapers around you.

On our final day of our two-week Japan adventure, we did some shopping in the Akihabara district, devoured more noodles at Ramen Thank Daimon, and took the train across Rainbow Bridge to see the Statue of Liberty (that is not a typo) and look back at the skyline in awe of the two weeks we’d just experienced.

Toasting to an amazing holiday, we sipped on beers underneath Tokyo Tower and booked a tower slot for sunset. Being that high up and watching the planes fly into Tokyo Haneda Airport as the sun melted over the miles of LEGO-like buildings was magical.

I was 90% ramen at this point, but we ordered our last meals of the trip at a cosy spot close to our hotel and got some rest before our long flight home.

Learnings from Japan

I’ve never felt so safe in any country, especially walking around with my camera around my neck
Everyone was extremely polite, respectful, and welcoming towards us especially in shops, restaurants, and bars
The hotel rooms are small in the cities, you don’t have much space to store your things so book a bigger room than usual
You might struggle to find restaurants open for breakfast before 10am, most seemed to open at 11am
You will find 7-Eleven, Lawson, and Family Mart convenience stores absolutely everywhere and you have to try all the good snacks you’ve no doubt seen on TikTok
In those stores you’ll find toilets, and you’ll also find plenty of public toilets around parks and busy areas
You won’t see many bins, so discard rubbish in shops or your hotel
You can’t smoke in public, so you’ll need to find designated smoking rooms or zones
It’s very easy to take the public transport around and between cities, you buy your train tickets at the station or via Klook and you pay for your bus tickets on board (usually at the end of the journey)
The weather in summer is extremely hot and humid
Card is accepted in a lot of places but we found cash to be easier and preferred, so take some currency and a travel money card, and if you need to get cash out do so from a convenience store instead of a bank
There isn’t a lot of free Wi-Fi on the go, so if you want internet I’d recommend a package with Ubigi which worked well for us
Flying from the UK we didn’t need a VISA to enter, but you do need to fill out a form either online or on the plane for the Embassy of Japan

Japan is without a doubt the most surreal and fascinating place I have visited. If you love your food, travel experiences that are completely unique, and getting lost in the culture of a place, then get those flights booked ASAP.

When planning, be sure to check out Abroad in Japan for endless useful content about travelling there. We heavily relied on those YouTube videos when planning our own trip.

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3 August 2024

September Sun in Santorini

Katie Merkli Destinations, Greece, Stays Destinations, Greece, Hotels, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

You can’t go wrong with a Greek holiday, but the island of Santorini is definitely one of the most stunning places I’ve been to.

Visiting in late September to squeeze in one final dose of summer sun, we spent a week between Fira and Oia, prioritising literally nothing other than eating plenty of local food and winding down from a busy few months.

For our first four nights in Santorini, we chose to stay in Fira at a hotel called Uma Ray Suites.

Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the popular bars and restaurants, our hotel was a tiny little paradise with a pool, breakfast buffet dining space, and balcony rooms where I sat with a coffee to watch the sunrise every morning.

This hotel has only a few rooms, but it’s a great spot with shops nearby, and it’s just a short walk along the cobbled streets to reach the centre of Fira.

Whilst staying here we sampled plenty of gyros and Greek salad, enjoyed the most incredible golden hour wine-tasting experience at Santo Wines, completed the scorching but scenic hike between Fira and Oia, and feasted on a BBQ aboard a catamaran which set sail late afternoon and docked at Amoudi Bay just as the sun had melted away for the day.

For our final three nights in Santorini, we moved across to Oia and checked into a hotel called IKIES Santorini.

The beauty of this blissfully cool cave hotel was the fact it overlooks the Oia peninsular, giving you the best view of the sunset every evening. I’d definitely recommend this if you’re happy to walk into the town rather than be immersed in it.

The series of steps down to your room isn’t the only thing that takes your breath away. The views from your private terrace area are out of this world, so we spent most of our mornings sitting poolside, mesmerised by the deep blue Caldera below, after eating our body weight in a freshly cooked breakfast served directly to our table.

Oia itself is gorgeous, I especially loved the postcard views of the blue topped buildings and turquoise waters that lapped Amoudi Bay, but bear in mind it is a busy town and when those cruise ships float in you suddenly find yourself fighting your way through the tour groups.