Destinations

February 15 2025

A Long Weekend Exploring Paris

Katie Merkli Destinations, France Destinations, Europe, France, Hotels, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

I first visited Paris in 2018, and it’s fair to say it was a humbling experience to be staying an hour’s walk outside of the centre with a very small travel budget for the three day trip.

We saw the key sights and enjoyed our time there, but that small budget meant awkward encounters in restaurants. I distinctly recall the look on a waiter’s face when we asked to share a French onion soup with two spoons, and then asked for our one euro in change.

My second visit was different, another long weekend at a similar time of year, but this time with my mum and armed with a more realistic travel budget knowing that city prices are higher than ever.

Looking for somewhere more centrally located to stay, I settled on Hotel Etoile Maillot, a boutique hotel located near to the Arc de Triomphe that ticked every box for our mother-daughter trip.

Day one

We flew out of London Heathrow Airport at 8:10am and just 50 minutes later we were descending into Charles de Gaulle Airport.

Our first day was spent exploring some of the top Paris tourist attractions, starting with the Arc de Triomphe and winding our way through the Parisian streets lined with designer stores until we reached the Eiffel Tower.

Not that you can really call this lunch, but we devoured pistachio cream filled crêpes at La Pistacherie, fighting off a few confident pigeons in the process, before arriving at the foot of the tower.

After the early start we were lacking energy, so ventured back to the hotel for a quick rest before dinner at Le Coq. Later moving across to a cosy table inside Café du Trocadéro, we sipped on cocktails with a view of the Eiffel Tower as it glittered in the drizzle.

Day Two

The day started with a slow wakeup in the comfort of my marshmallow duvet, Nespresso coffee in hand, planning the itinerary for our remaining two days in Paris.

First on the agenda was breakfast, a quick croissant and cappuccino in a nearby boulangerie, before arriving at the Eiffel Tower in the hope we could buy some last-minute tickets that claimed to be sold out online.

Luck was on our side, as we found ourselves on the top floor of the Eiffel Tower fighting the biting winds and seeking shelter from the iron structure. It’s a view that doesn’t disappoint, even on a grey day.

Next we began the long walk down to the Notre-Dame Cathedral, hopping into Le Parisien for a croque monsieur to warm up and peeking inside various fromageries and wine shops on route.

Finding ourselves alongside the River Seine in a fleeting moment of sunshine, we passed the Musée du Louvre and black and white pillars of Domaine National du Palais-Royal. In desperate need of somewhere to sit and thaw, we joined the lengthy queue of Angelina to taste their famous hot chocolate.

In the evening we revisited the Eiffel Tower for the final time, finding a table in nearby Chez Ribe for red wine, cheese, and French bread. It’s not a restaurant I’d recommend as such, but after a long day of walking we were desperate to get off our feet.

Day three

Feeling the effects of the distance we’d already covered since arriving, we soaked up all the little luxuries of Hotel Etoile Maillot for one last morning.

Our final breakfast was enjoyed at The French Bastard, a quirky boulangerie not too far from the hotel. Fuelled by coffee and warm bread, we set off in search of Montmarte.

Set upon a hill with a view spanning the city, we circled Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, browsed the local shops, and enjoyed a glass of champagne in the square as tourists and locals flocked past in huge numbers.

It was time to head back to London, but having racked up almost 80,000 steps in those few days, we were ready to return to our home comforts and reminisce on what had been such a lovely time spent together.

Find more Paris content on my Instagram.

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February 3 2025

A Short Layover in Singapore

Katie Merkli Destinations, Singapore, Stays Destinations, Singapore, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Singapore is one of those places I hoped I’d one day visit on my way to or from another destination, just so I could spend a whirlwind layover getting to know a city that was very far from home.

With the post-holiday blues already creeping in after leaving the Philippines, I was thrilled that I’d decided to break up the long journey back to London by hopping off the plane at Changi Airport to spend two nights in Singapore.

Roughly translating to a 40-hour layover between the two flights, we didn’t have much time to waste.

Arriving at around 8pm, first on the agenda was heading to the Rain Vortex located inside the Jewel. You can easily access this from whichever terminal you arrive into or fly from, but check the timings before you visit so you don’t arrive to find it shut down for maintenance like we did.

Spoiler alert: luckily I managed to see it before I left for London, but it definitely wasted a chunk of our limited time in the city by not doing the research.

After that mistake, we fled towards the city in a Grab taxi, checked into the DAO by Dorsett hotel, dumped our bags, and immediately headed back out into the surprisingly bearable humidity (because nothing compares to Japan in the summer) to explore whilst we still had a slither of energy remaining.

After roaming around the waterfront and soaking in the sights of the spectacular Marina Bay Sands Hotel, it dawned on us that it was already 1am. One thing about this city is that it feels incredibly safe and quiet, which isn’t something I’ve experienced anywhere else.

The next morning we loaded up on the buffet breakfast and made our way to the starting point of our four-hour city bike tour.

Getting to see so much of the city with a group of other travellers was a lot of fun, and despite the heat, it didn’t feel too challenging thanks to the regular sightseeing stops factored into the itinerary.

After racing along a section of the Formula 1 Marina Bay Street Circuit and visiting a few of the city’s main highlights, including the skyscrapers of the waterfront and the bustling markets of Chinatown, we made one last stop in Little India to refuel with a freshly served sugar cane juice and spicy vegetarian samosa.

After the tour we checked out some of the street food markets to taste more of the local delicacies, and later ended up at the hotel’s infinity pool for a quick dip as the light began to fade.

For our one full evening in Singapore, we obviously had to visit Gardens by the Bay.

Starting with the two garden domes, we moved onto the Supertree OCBC Skyway. Somehow we got our timings just right and managed to be up there for the first of the two evening lights shows that take place at 7:45pm and 8:45pm, even avoiding what felt like a looming thunderstorm that could unload at any moment.

I’ve got to admit I felt pretty wobbly up there as the wind gently shook the walkway, but you’re so dazzled by the twinkling trees and towering landscape of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel that it’s not hard to find yourself distracted from the height.

To end the night we watched the 9pm water and light show on the waterfront and took the lift inside the Marina Bay Sands Hotel up to LAVO, an Italian restaurant and bar. By some sheer luck we managed to grab a table on the terrace, complete with an unbelievable city view to devour alongside a pizza and Singapore Sling cocktails.

The next morning it was time to say our goodbyes to Singapore and return to reality, so we begrudgingly packed our things and prepared for the 14-hour flight home.

But not before seeing that Rain Vortex…

From our experience, the best thing to do is check-in your baggage and make your way to the Jewel before going to your gate. You can do this no matter which terminal you’re flying from, and once you’re there you only need 30-minutes tops to see it and snap a few photos. That said, you could easily lose a few hours with all that’s on offer inside.

Overall I loved Singapore, and there’s plenty more still to see if I end up returning via another layover one day.

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January 21 2025

Travelling the Philippines: My Two-Week Itinerary

Katie Merkli Destinations, Philippines, Stays Destinations, Philippines, Stays

Ad: this post contains experiences and accommodation that formed a partially-gifted partnership with Keelooma Expeditions.

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

I can’t believe I actually made it to my ultimate bucket list destination.

I originally had tickets booked for May 2020, but we all know what happened that year. Fast forward four years, and I was sat at my laptop rebooking those flights to paradise.

It can be tricky to plan which of the 7000+ islands you want to visit, but blog posts, Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, and Facebook groups helped me out a lot when mapping out my Philippines itinerary.

Now that it’s over I can confirm this seriously was the trip of a lifetime, so I’m excited to share all the details of my 14-day holiday in the Philippines to help others plan their trip and document the memories.

Days one & two: London to Cebu

We booked via Singapore Airlines to fly on Christmas Day, stopping over in Changi Airport for a few hours before connecting onto Cebu, where we eventually arrived on Boxing Day. It’s pretty surreal flying on Christmas Day to say the least.

As we were flying out again the next morning, we chose to stay in an apartment called Express Condotel as it was close to the airport. It was a basic room but had access to a large swimming pool, so turned out to be a good place to crash for one night.

Day three: Cebu to Coron

Early in the morning we ventured back to the airport via a Grab taxi (which is like Uber) and caught our short 90-minute Philippines Airlines flight to Coron. This was our first taste of the notoriously slow-paced lifestyle in the Philippines as the flight was an hour late to leave, but before we knew it we were inside a small propellor plane soaring towards the mountainous province of Palawan.

We had organised for an airport pick up for ease and later checked into the Coron Soleil Garden Resort. Unfortunately our room had a power issue so we were downgraded to the neighbouring Coron Soleil Express Hotel, but we were refunded the difference and still got to enjoy the facilities.

We spent our afternoon exploring the streets or Coron and grabbing lunch at Pacifico, before making the steep and sweaty hike up to the Hollywood sign dupe of Mount Tapyas for panoramic views of the surrounding islands.

After a much needed dip in the hotel pool, we wandered down to Sharky’s for dinner and a bit of live music.

Day four: Island Hopping

Today was the start of a very big adventure. I had heard about these overnight island hopping expeditions so decided to kick off my trip with a two-night, three-day Keelooma voyage, leaving Coron and travelling down to El Nido.

It was a slow start to get everyone checked in, transferred to Coron Port, onto the boat, and given the all clear to set sail, but a few hours later we were on our way.

The boat was of typical Philippines style, narrow and tall but with wooden beams and poles spanning out on either side for stability.

We spent the day cruising through the waters of Coron Bay, getting to know the others on the boat, hopping off at several snorkelling spots, and feasting on an unbelievable lunch of fresh local food that was cooked and served onboard.

As the sun set we arrived to a new island, spotting the wooden huts we’d be sleeping in that night. The real fun of the expedition was swimming to the island from the boat with our bags following behind in a kayak, but if you’re not a strong swimmer you can hop in one of the kayaks with the Keelooma crew.

Each hut had bedding and a mosquito net, with access to shared toilets, chilly rain showers, and a sheltered common area where we gathered for another epic buffet and plenty of rum and cokes during a happy hour that didn’t seem to end.

Day five: Island Hopping

Today was my 30th birthday and wow what a place to wake up. I managed to catch the sunrise and drink my coffee on the beach as monkeys played nearby, before swimming back to the boat for a tasty buffet breakfast.

This day followed the same fun agenda, packed with breathtaking snorkelling sites and an indulgent spread of food shared with a great bunch of people.

I jumped off the boat into crystal clear lagoons, wandered through jungles to reach remote beaches, and even got presented with a watermelon carved to read “Happy 30th b-day Katie” which was so sweet of the crew.

Arriving at our second island stay, the ocean floor was dotted with pink and yellow starfish.

We settled into our new spacious hut, checked out the facilities (aka bucket showers), ate more food, got together for some karaoke, and stargazed underneath the clearest sky I’ve ever seen.

Day six: Island Hopping & El Nido

We were off to a slower start today as a lot of people had fallen sick after eating a coconut found on the beach. Who knew they could do so much damage if they’re not fresh.

Eventually we were paddling back out to the boat and continued on our adventure, stopping at another handful of locations. Our very last stop of this day was postcard perfect, a beautiful end to an unforgettable few days.

We left the boat, were greeted with traditional Filipino dancing, and hopped in an old school American-style bus to travel to El Nido, where we said our goodbyes and settled into the gorgeous Charlie’s Hotel for an early night.

Day seven: El Nido

It was now New Year’s Eve, and we took it upon ourselves to have the most adventurous end to 2024 by renting a kayak and travelling out to Paradise Beach on Cadlao Island.

For a good 90-minutes we were alone, just soaking up the ocean breeze and the heat of the December sun under the swaying palm fronds. On our way back we heard a turtle come up for air and just caught a glimpse before it sunk back beneath the still water.

Once back on land we grabbed a quick bakery lunch and caught the last guided El Nido Canopy Walk of the afternoon. It’s quite expensive for how quick it is to do, but the views didn’t disappoint.

Finally we took a trike to Las Cabanas beach for the last sunset of the year, sipping beers by the water as the sun dipped behind the mountain.

Later we met up with some of our new friends from the Keelooma tour to party the night away in El Nido town. It was crazy, with fireworks filling the skies at midnight and dancing in the streets until almost 3am.

Day eight: El Nido to Bohol

It was time to leave Palawan and head southeast to Bohol, again with a delayed but picturesque AirSwift flight.

We checked into Panglao’s Diving Addiction Resort, a hotel that honestly was a bit of a catfish, and took a tuktuk down to Alona Beach for the most unbelievable sunset that turned the sky shades of coral pink.

I was feeling unwell with some sort of nasty flu, so for dinner we grabbed a quick pizza at Napoleat and caught up on some much needed rest.

Day nine: Bohol

There was a lot to see in Bohol but only one day to do so, so we organised a private diver costing approximately £30 who picked us up at 9am, took us to a few must see places, and dropped us back just before 5pm.

First we visited Loboc River and hopped on a 45-minute private boat cruise, taking us up and down part of the river for approximately £15. Further down the road you will pay twice the price for an hour cruise with lunch.

Via a drive through the Bilar Man Made Forest, next we arrived at the Tarsier Conservation Area, which is a brilliant place to see the tiny creatures in a habitat that lets them sleep in the trees without tourists prodding at them.

For our last stop of the day we drove onto the chocolate hills, a gorgeous vista of green domes that turn brown in the dry season.

Arriving back at Alona Beach just in time for another perfect sunset, we sat on the beach with drinks bought from 7-Eleven and went for dinner at Kissa, a Japanese restaurant in the town.

Day ten: Bohol to Siquijor

We had an afternoon ferry to catch but managed to squeeze in a few hours of sunbathing at Alona Beach beforehand.

Our ferry eventually departed a little later than planned but we had a very pleasant journey to Siquijor, taking just under two hours. I was honestly relieved as we couldn’t see out of the windows from our seats and I’d heard these ferry journeys can be hell on earth in bad weather.

We caught another tuktuk and hurtled towards our new accommodation, Bermuda Triangle Bungalows, which is a slice of tropical paradise in a prime location with some of Siquijor’s best restaurants just a short walk away. On night one we dined at Luca Loko which I can’t recommend enough.

Day eleven: Siquijor

In desperate need of a day with minimal plans, we took ourselves to Paliton Beach for a morning of swimming, snorkelling, and sunbathing, and tuktuk’d our way south to Tubod Marine Reserve for the afternoon. This is a fantastic spot for snorkelling alongside some incredible marine life, and the sunset put on a hell of a show for us once again.

For dinner we ate close to our hotel at Bahar Bar, a gorgeous looking restaurant with live music and a great menu.

Day thirteen: Siquijor

Initially we’d contemplated heading out to do some more exploring, but our final few days ahead were going to be full on and often we forget this is a holiday and we’re also meant to relax, so we spontaneously found ourselves two sunbeds at Republika Beach Bar and stayed here from breakfast until sunset.

Day fourteen: Siquijor to Cebu

Sadly it was time to leave the healing island that I had grown to love so much, and we had a five-hour ferry journey to Cebu ahead of us.

Luck was on our side again, so it was a smooth ride with a short stop in Bohol on the way. To make the journey more comfortable we paid a small amount more for business class, which also meant we didn’t have to pay more for our baggage on arrival.

It felt like we were wasting prime island time in the city, but as ferries and flights can be heavily delayed or cancelled, it wasn’t worth the risk of not making our flight out of Cebu the next day.

We spent our last afternoon in the Philippines at the ninth-floor pool of the Citadines Hotel, grabbed some local Filipino food nearby, and repacked our backpacks for what felt like the hundredth time.

The next day, it was time to fly out of paradise to spend 36 hours in Singapore.

Tips & hacks for the Philippines

Cash is king, very few places accepted card
Expect delays, flights and ferries especially
It’s not the cheapest part of Asia but it’s still cheaper than western countries
Pack a lot of bug repellent and get the strong stuff
Expect to pay small amounts for tourist attraction entries, such as marine reserves and waterfalls
A lot of tuktuk and trike journeys have set rates based on distance
Be careful with food and drink, you only want to consume purified water
Tipping culture is fairly inexpensive with 10-15% being reasonable for most restaurants

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October 6 2024

A Japan Adventure: My Two-Week Itinerary

Katie Merkli Destinations, Japan Destinations, Japan, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Even though Japan had always intrigued me, it had never been somewhere I’d really given too much thought. But when looking at options for a summer holiday to celebrate my husband’s birthday, Japan was top of the list for him, so just a few months later we were climbing out of Heathrow Airport on a 14-hour flight to Tokyo.

In this post I share what we got up to in each of the below locations, though our two-week itinerary was pretty full on, so if I skip over any details and you’d love to know more then take a look at my Instagram highlight and feel free to reach out with any questions.

Tokyo and Kamakura – 2 nights
Kanazawa – 2 nights
Kyoto – 3 nights
Osaka and Nara – 2 nights
Lake Kawaguchi (Mount Fuji) – 1 night
Tokyo – 3 nights

Tokyo (part one)

After leaving London on Saturday morning, we eventually landed in Tokyo at 7am on the Sunday. Somehow we needed to find the energy to power through the entire day to get ahead of jet lag, but luckily in a city like Tokyo there’s no shortage of things to do to keep busy.

After checking into LANDABOUT Tokyo, located in the Ueno district, we set off into the city to explore Ueno Park, Sensō-ji Temple, and the district surrounding the Tokyo Skytree, before sitting down for dinner in an incredible little ramen spot called Hakata Ramen Ichiban.

By the time we slumped into bed, we’d been awake for 35 hours and walked almost 30,000 steps. It’s safe to say day one felt equal measures overwhelming and incredible.

Kamakura

Kicking off our second day, we had some breakfast in the hotel before taking an hour-long train down to Kamakura, a beachside city that has tons to offer.

We only had the day here but managed to see the giant Daibutsu, the gardens of Hasedera, the gorgeous grounds of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, and ate some tasty bao buns at Kamakura Tenshin on Komachi-dori Street. You can explore on foot, or there’s a local train that can take you around a few stops.

When we got back to Tokyo, we walked for three hours through the city just taking in the sights, and refuelled with some cheap and simple food in one of the train station restaurants called Kiraku Soba.

Kanazawa

We weren’t completely sure if we’d be able to leave Tokyo easily because of a looming typhoon that was due to arrive any day, but it was moving so slowly that for now our first bullet train remained scheduled.

We watched central Japan fly past the windows for almost three hours, eventually reaching the city of Kanazawa at midday and checking into our new hotel, SOKI Kanazawa. I thought this hotel had a pool but it was actually a Japanese Onsen, aka a naked bath, and that’s one tradition unfortunately I couldn’t bring myself to try.

The humidity in Kanazawa somehow felt even more suffocating than in Tokyo, but we pushed through to explore Omicho Market, Oyama Shrine, Kanazawa castle, the Kenroku-en gardens, and the Nagamachi district which is home to traditional samurai houses.

That night we found a real hidden gem noodle bar in a tiny underground spot called Aburaya, before wandering across the hall to an empty bar for a drink. That drink then evolved into electric darts, karaoke, and Japanese computer games with the owner of the bar.

The next morning we went down to breakfast, not realising that it was a traditional Japanese bento box. This is obviously something amazing to experience, but because we don’t eat much seafood, truthfully it was a bit of a challenge especially that early in the day.

On our final full day in Kanazawa, we explored the machiya houses of the Nishi Chaya, Kazuemachi Chaya, and Higashi Chaya districts, ate tasty Tonkatsu for lunch, tried the famous gold leaf ice cream, and had a quiet dinner at an amazing ramen spot called Yuzuki Fine Ramen.

Kyoto

With the typhoon still at bay, luckily our second bullet train was also unaffected, so we took a couple of short trains down to Kyoto and checked into our new accommodation, a traditional Japanese Machiya house called Kanjakuan.

The walls of these houses are paper thin so you have to creep around like a mouse in the early and late hours, but it was such a fun experience and gave us a good opportunity to get some mid-holiday washing done.

We took a train over to Arashiyama and spent the afternoon winding our way through the monkey forest and bamboo forest, stopping off for a craft beer to escape the downpour that left us drenched from head to toe.

Back in Kyoto, we used Google Maps to find a random restaurant called Non-Chan that served Okomoniyaki, a local savoury pancake dish that became one of my favourite meals of the trip. Here we sat up at the grills and spoke with the chefs for hours, as both of them wanted to practice their English post-university studies.

Day two in Kyoto was my husband’s birthday, so we started the day with the famous fluffy matcha pancakes at A Happy Pancake, and then ticked Nishiki Market, Pontocho Alley, the Gion Geisha district, Hōkan-ji Temple, Kiyomizu-dera, and the 1000s of tori gates at Fushimi Inari Taisha off our list.

It was a very full-on day, especially in that heat, but we were able to put our feet up for a few hours at dinner, where we devoured a 12-course Michelin Star menu at Muromachi Wakuden. Finding somewhere that offered a vegetarian option took a bit of research, but it was well worth it to experience local cuisine.

On our final full day in Kyoto, we had a slow start. It had been a rough night with the rain because of the typhoon, but we eventually made it out of the house to devour the crispiest Michelin Guide gyozas at Motoi, finished off with a few doughnuts at Koe.

In the afternoon we took a bus to visit the golden temple, Kinkaku-ji, and walked for hours through the city before settling on another bowl of ramen at Ichiryu Manbai Teramachi for dinner. I’d recommend pre-booking restaurants in Kyoto as they often have long lines and only seat so many people.

Osaka

Thankfully the typhoon kept its distance from our planned route so we could continue onto Osaka the next morning. Here we checked into our new hotel, Osaka Resol Trinity, which whilst beautiful was admittedly quite a way from the heart of the city. This was another hotel with an Onsen, again I didn’t have the courage to brave it.

It was however close to Osaka Castle which was our first stop, before heading down to see the crazy sights of Tsūtenkaku and Dotonburi. This part of our trip was all about food, beer, arcades, and walking endlessly through the busy city streets. For dinner, we ate more gyozas at Gyozaoh.

Nara

Close to Osaka is Nara, a city home to free-roaming deer who bow at your feet when you offer them crackers. Though let’s just say some were friendlier than others, and it wasn’t just the crackers that got nibbled.

In Nara you also have the Tōdai-ji temple that houses an enormous Buddha, and plenty of other stunning temples that surround it. We ate teriyaki chicken and rice at Todaiji Emado Chaya, explored a little further, and then ventured back to Osaka for more of those savoury pancakes at Kohaku.

Lake Kawaguchi

Next it was time to move on to a more rural stop. Taking a subway train, a bullet train to Mishima, and finally a pre-bookable bus to reach Lake Kawaguchi, we checked into our (very basic) hotel called HAOSTAY that had incredible views of Mount Fuji.

Sadly though, we had no idea where Mount Fuji was because the weather was so awful it was completely invisible. We attempted a walk around the lake but the rain was too heavy, so we went for a few drinks and had an early dinner at ラーメンふくちゃんRamen Fuku-chan instead.

The next morning the rain had passed, so we walked the lake in the hope the clouds would lift enough to show us even a small glimpse of the mountain. By the time we had to leave to go back to Tokyo, we could see just enough of its outline, with the top momentarily appearing as we sped away from the bus station. If you get to see it without any cloud, you’re super lucky!

Tokyo (part two)

Back in a new area of Tokyo for our final leg of the trip, we checked into our hotel, LOF Shimbashi. The location was great but I have big regrets about booking the smallest room in the building because by this point our luggage was bursting at the seams and we needed space to get organised.

We spent the rest of the day walking around the outskirts of the Imperial Palace and the Ginza district, ordering a beer with a view from the Floor 11 Pyonpyonsya GINZA UNA restaurant, and eating our way through all sorts of dishes at the Kura revolving sushi restaurant. This alone is a Japanese experience like no other.

The next day we took a train to Shinjuku, racking up steps and taking in the sights and lights of the city that is constantly buzzing. We ordered wagyu burgers at Shogun, strolled through the park of Meiji Jingu, and visited Takeashita Street and Harajuku.

Our last stop of the day was Shibuya Crossing. You’ve got to experience it on the ground, but I’d also recommend heading up high for the best views. We booked to have dinner and cocktails at BAO Ce La Vie which is 17 floors up and offers a more distant view of the crossing with just a few other skyscrapers around you.

On our final day of our two-week Japan adventure, we did some shopping in the Akihabara district, devoured more noodles at Ramen Thank Daimon, and took the train across Rainbow Bridge to see the Statue of Liberty (that is not a typo) and look back at the skyline in awe of the two weeks we’d just experienced.

Toasting to an amazing holiday, we sipped on beers underneath Tokyo Tower and booked a tower slot for sunset. Being that high up and watching the planes fly into Tokyo Haneda Airport as the sun melted over the miles of LEGO-like buildings was magical.

I was 90% ramen at this point, but we ordered our last meals of the trip at a cosy spot close to our hotel and got some rest before our long flight home.

Learnings from Japan

I’ve never felt so safe in any country, especially walking around with my camera around my neck
Everyone was extremely polite, respectful, and welcoming towards us especially in shops, restaurants, and bars
The hotel rooms are small in the cities, you don’t have much space to store your things so book a bigger room than usual
You might struggle to find restaurants open for breakfast before 10am, most seemed to open at 11am
You will find 7-Eleven, Lawson, and Family Mart convenience stores absolutely everywhere and you have to try all the good snacks you’ve no doubt seen on TikTok
In those stores you’ll find toilets, and you’ll also find plenty of public toilets around parks and busy areas
You won’t see many bins, so discard rubbish in shops or your hotel
You can’t smoke in public, so you’ll need to find designated smoking rooms or zones
It’s very easy to take the public transport around and between cities, you buy your train tickets at the station or via Klook and you pay for your bus tickets on board (usually at the end of the journey)
The weather in summer is extremely hot and humid
Card is accepted in a lot of places but we found cash to be easier and preferred, so take some currency and a travel money card, and if you need to get cash out do so from a convenience store instead of a bank
There isn’t a lot of free Wi-Fi on the go, so if you want internet I’d recommend a package with Ubigi which worked well for us
Flying from the UK we didn’t need a VISA to enter, but you do need to fill out a form either online or on the plane for the Embassy of Japan

Japan is without a doubt the most surreal and fascinating place I have visited. If you love your food, travel experiences that are completely unique, and getting lost in the culture of a place, then get those flights booked ASAP.

When planning, be sure to check out Abroad in Japan for endless useful content about travelling there. We heavily relied on those YouTube videos when planning our own trip.

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August 23 2024

10 Days Touring Sri Lanka

Katie Merkli Destinations, Sri Lanka Destinations, Group Tour, Sri Lanka

It’s been a little while since my trip to Sri Lanka, but this part of the world remains the most special place I’ve visited.

Juggling annual leave limitations meant we could travel for two weeks at most, so to see as much of this beautiful country as possible we decided to book a group tour with TruTravels.

This was our first tour experience so we were both excited and nervous at the prospect of spending so long with a bunch of strangers, but what an experience it turned out to be.

Day One

We set off from Birmingham Airport and eventually landed in Colombo, with a short layover in the UAE on the way. Walking out of the airport, I still remember feeling this wave of humid air wash over me. I’d visited hot countries before but nothing compared to this.

We hopped in our car transfer and made our way to our first hotel of the trip, located in Negombo. To re-energise after the two long flights, our first day was spent exploring the beach, hopping into little shops and cafes along the main street, and getting to know the others on the tour at the welcome dinner.

Day Two

Leaving Negombo behind, we set off early to travel to Sigiriya.

Here we were staying in a large three-story house. Our room was on the second floor, and there was an enormous communal area on the ground floor where we dined on a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast in the mornings and had a few too many shots at night.

Once we’d settled in, we headed to Dambulla Cave Temple to see the Golden Buddha. This was an amazing way to dive straight into the country’s culture, just watch out for those thieving monkeys if you visit.

Day Three

Our third day began insanely early, because today we were climbing Sigiriya Rock (aka Lion Rock) at sunrise. This was challenging in the heat, but the views from the top were out of this world and absolutely worth the struggle.

Later that day we visited a village for a fireside cooking experience. On the journey there we experienced a huge thunderstorm, and when it rains it absolutely pours, which made for an interesting open boat ride down the river to our dinner spot.

Once we’d dried off we made a delicious dhal from scratch, feasted on a huge plate of food, and enjoyed a few local drinks with the family who hosted us.

Things got a bit wild after a few too many drinks were consumed by some of the group, so it became an eventful night back at the house. This definitely wasn’t a tour highlight, but that’s the risk you take when travelling with a group.

Day Four

Leaving Sigiriya behind, we set off for Kandy and stopped at a spice garden on the way. Arriving to our new hillside hotel, we quickly learned that we had to keep the doors shut to avoid a monkey invasion.

Whilst in Kandy we visited Temple of the Tooth, set next to the stunning Kandy Lake. Listening to the beat of the drums, lighting candles, inhaling the wafts of incense, and watching the sun sink behind the temple as the skies turned shades of pink and purple was a magical experience.

Day Five

Without a doubt, day five was one of the best.

We first arrived at a tea plantation to pick tea leaves and collect them in baskets that hung from our heads, before taking tuk-tuks to a cooking class where we made some incredible dishes in the heart of the tropical rainforest.

Finally, we took the famous blue train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella. This was an epic journey with mountain views as far as you could see, palm fronds brushing the exterior of the carriages, and a gentle breeze coming through the open doors.

You’ve no doubt seen the Instagram shots where people hang out of the doors, by all means have a peek out but do it with caution as it can be dangerous.

Our new hotel in Ella was by far the best of the trip. The room was huge and the balcony looked out to a panoramic view that can only be compared to a scene from Jurassic Park (except instead of dinosaurs we had all kinds of spiders and insects).

Day Six

To start our full day in Ella, we hiked Little Adams Peak where once again the scenery was breathtaking from every angle. We spent some time sat on top of the mountain above the clouds, before travelling back into town for lunch.

Later we walked down to Nine Arch Bridge to watch the blue train pass through from a different perspective. I still can’t believe how close some people got to the edge of that bridge without fear of the huge drop below!

Day Seven

After a pancake breakfast on the terrace, we left Ella and stopped off at a nearby waterfall, before activating safari mode in Udawalawe National Park.

We checked into our glamping tents, went for a dip in the pool, and enjoyed a chilled night of drinks and games with the group before setting our alarms for an early start the next morning.

Day Eight

It was time to embark on our sunrise safari, which happened to be the first safari experience I’d ever been on. Needless to say it was unbelievable, and it didn’t take long to spot some wild animals, including herds of elephants.

Afterwards we made our way south to Galle for lunch, a historic beachside town home to the Dutch Fort, before travelling on to our final stop of the tour in Unawatuna.

Day Nine

Today was all about relaxation. We ventured down to Jungle Beach to relax, play games, and swim in the ocean. It really was the perfect place to wind down after an incredible whirlwind of an adventure.

The day ended in a beachfront restaurant and bar, where we all drank far too many cocktails, sang and danced in the rain, and said an emotional farewell to our amazing tour guide and the group we’d grown so close to over the past 10 days.

Day Ten

We hadn’t had more than about two hours of sleep, but we were back up at a silly hour to begin the three-hour journey back to the airport ready for two flights back to the UK.

Everyone but us stayed a day or two longer, and I still regret that we didn’t do the same! This for sure was a trip of a lifetime that I’ll never forget.

Would I do a group tour again? Definitely, but how I like to travel has changed a bit since this tour, so next time I’d go for one with nicer hotels and a little less partying.

Tips for travelling in Sri Lanka

Apply for a visa before you fly
Take some Sri Lankan Rupees and use a travel money card (such as Monzo)
Pack a mix of clothes as the weather changes quickly and you’ll need to cover up for temples
Try all the local food, I loved the Kottu
You’ll be fine with either a suitcase or a backpack, but packing pods are essential
Experience a tuk-tuk ride if you can
Pack a lot of mosquito repellent and bite cream

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August 3 2024

September Sun in Santorini

Katie Merkli Destinations, Greece, Stays Destinations, Greece, Hotels, Stays

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

You can’t go wrong with a Greek holiday, but the island of Santorini is definitely one of the most stunning places I’ve been to.

Visiting in late September to squeeze in one final dose of summer sun, we spent a week between Fira and Oia, prioritising literally nothing other than eating plenty of local food and winding down from a busy few months.

For our first four nights in Santorini, we chose to stay in Fira at a hotel called Uma Ray Suites.

Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the popular bars and restaurants, our hotel was a tiny little paradise with a pool, breakfast buffet dining space, and balcony rooms where I sat with a coffee to watch the sunrise every morning.

This hotel has only a few rooms, but it’s a great spot with shops nearby, and it’s just a short walk along the cobbled streets to reach the centre of Fira.

Whilst staying here we sampled plenty of gyros and Greek salad, enjoyed the most incredible golden hour wine-tasting experience at Santo Wines, completed the scorching but scenic hike between Fira and Oia, and feasted on a BBQ aboard a catamaran which set sail late afternoon and docked at Amoudi Bay just as the sun had melted away for the day.

For our final three nights in Santorini, we moved across to Oia and checked into a hotel called IKIES Santorini.

The beauty of this blissfully cool cave hotel was the fact it overlooks the Oia peninsular, giving you the best view of the sunset every evening. I’d definitely recommend this if you’re happy to walk into the town rather than be immersed in it.

The series of steps down to your room isn’t the only thing that takes your breath away. The views from your private terrace area are out of this world, so we spent most of our mornings sitting poolside, mesmerised by the deep blue Caldera below, after eating our body weight in a freshly cooked breakfast served directly to our table.

Oia itself is gorgeous, I especially loved the postcard views of the blue topped buildings and turquoise waters that lapped Amoudi Bay, but bear in mind it is a busy town and when those cruise ships float in you suddenly find yourself fighting your way through the tour groups.

It’s safe to say I didn’t want to leave and would go back to this part of the world in a heartbeat, I really loved everything about it.

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May 14 2024

Moments From a Week in Miami

Katie Merkli Destinations, Stays, United States Destinations, Hotels, Stays, United States

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Apart from a quick layover in the airport on my way home from Aruba just six months before, this was my first visit to Miami, a city that I’d been told I’d either love or hate.

It became a very last-minute decision when my original travel plans fell through, but it turned out to be a pretty great place to spend a week under the scorching sun while the autumn leaves were busy crisping back at home.

Where I stayed

I couldn’t decide between two hotels so decided to split my stay across both. It can be a faff moving your luggage from A to B, but clearly I love hotels enough to bother doing that. Even on our honeymoon I stayed in three different rooms just to mix it up.

We booked Hotel Trouvail Miami Beach for our first four nights. Recommended by a friend who stayed when they were known as Palihouse, this tropical hideaway in Mid Beach felt like a tiny slice of paradise.

Even with its modern touches the interior design of the hotel took us back a few decades, and the palm-fringed pool invited us to unwind into the five-hour time difference. I did however get eaten alive by mosquitoes after swimming during a thunderstorm, so slap on that repellent if you plan to do the same.

For our final three nights, we travelled down to South Beach and checked into Esmé Miami Beach. A boutique Instagram find that was conveniently situated in an incredibly central location, this hotel was a not-so-secret gem. The pool and room were smaller than our previous stay, but the suntrap rooftop bar and terrace were a very good compromise.

One of my core memories from this stay is devouring tacos and getting tipsy on frozen margaritas, stumbling back to Esmé, and popping my head through a velvet curtain to discover a jazz show unfolding in their tucked-away Saloon Bar where we spent the rest of the night.

My seven-day itinerary

In all honesty we planned very little, because this trip was all about lay-ins (as much as jet lag would allow) and slow-paced adventures.

The best part of the holiday was starting every single morning at the beach, a short walk from both hotels, and watching the sunrise burst up across the horizon. On the first and final days when the waters were calm we even went for a swim, whilst most of the city was sleeping away hangovers.

We only ventured out of the city twice, once to the mall to escape the downpours and once to the Everglades for a riverboat experience. I wasn’t a fan of the mediocre alligator show, but I did love getting to see them floating in the wild as we hurtled across the water powered by a gigantic fan.

Aside from that we simply ate, drank, and strolled our way around the city, taking many moments to escape the intense humidity and snap photos of the pastel-coloured art deco architecture along Ocean Drive.

I was also fascinated by the ginormous cruise ships honking their way in and out of the port, which you could watch from the beach and the path that winds around the harbour.

We didn’t blow the budget on this trip, instead enjoying the challenge of seeking out amazing little eateries that the locals probably want to gatekeep. My favourites included Taco Rico, La Sandwicherie, Las Olas Cafe, Huahua’s Taquiera, and plenty of good spots along Espanola Way.

To celebrate our wedding anniversary we went a little more luxe and dined at Carbone.

I’ve been lucky to visit America many times over the years, but Miami felt entirely different from all the places I’d previously visited. It’s not for everyone, and I can’t comment on the party scene as I steered well clear of that, but I’d definitely recommend a Miami trip to anyone who can handle the heat.

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April 10 2024

Four Days Exploring Marrakech

Katie Merkli Destinations, Morocco, Stays Destinations, Europe, Germany, Interrail, Switzerland

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Ad: For this post I collaborated with a hotel on a PR stay basis, however all I’ve shared is an honest representation of my experience.

Marrakech is a destination that’s been on my bucket list for a very (very) long time. I nearly made it there once before, but finally 2024 was the year I got to set foot in the city that is like nowhere I’ve explored before.

There’s a lot to see in Marrakech so of course I didn’t quite manage it all during my four-day visit, but I have shared everything I got up to during my whirlwind February holiday that might help you when it comes to planning your own trip.

Day one

My flight landed into Marrakech Ménara Airport early afternoon and I headed straight to my first of two Riad stays — more on those later!

Once checked in, lunch was top of the list. I stopped at the nearby Salama Loft restaurant and feasted on the most unbelievable orange and almond chicken tagine (still not done raving about it) with a side of hummus and flatbread. This isn’t your cheapest spot for food, but the fourth-floor views spanning across the city are worth the extra Dirhams.

Immersing myself in the hustle and bustle below, I did a lap of Jemaa el-Fnaa square before spending the afternoon getting lost in the neverending maze of souks.

By getting lost, I accidentally stumbled across somewhere I had bookmarked to visit another day: Ben Youssef Madrasa. Paying only a small fee to enter just before closing time, the last of the sunshine hours were spent admiring the stunning tiling and architecture with only a few other tourists for company.

The lunchtime tagine was a distant memory by then, so in search of more food I settled upon Bakchich Café back near the square, tucking into a lemon and olive chicken tagine with chicken couscous.

Day two

After feasting on a breakfast that included an unbelievable spread of delicious local delicacies, I headed south in search of Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both required a small entry fee, but they offered something quite different. I found Bahia Palace the more beautiful of the two, because of its serene surrounding gardens.

Noon quickly came around, so I explored the Jewish Mellah district and stopped by Kech Badi for a lunch of falafel pittas and kebabs. The day was still young, so I pulled up a chair at Pergola Restaurant & Bar for a cocktail made with the fresh oranges that I saw hanging from the trees that lined the streets.

After a quick stop at Parque Kutubia where the scent of blossoming Neroli literally stopped me in my tracks, I lazed the rest of the afternoon away on the rooftop of my Riad.

The sun soon set upon Morocco, and I ended my first full day trying a few local dishes at Zeit un Café. The service was pretty poor, but I wasn’t in any rush to leave and instead enjoyed the sights, sounds, and scents from the square below.

Day three

Following one last dreamy breakfast, I reluctantly left my Riad ready to check into another for the remaining two nights of the trip.

I’d organised a tuk-tuk transfer through the previous Riad, but unfortunately a nearby shop owner caught wind of the complicated route and insisted on being the guide for what became an awkward luggage-loaded hike through the Medina. Long story short, someone who worked at the Riad joined for safety, but the local of course wanted paying off at the other end. It didn’t cost much in the end, but I was just glad to be rid of him.

Once comfortably checked into my second Riad, first on the agenda was the nearby sanctuary, Le Jardin Secret. This was slightly more expensive to enter but still very affordable, and a gorgeous place to relax in what felt like a true oasis of the Medina.

A place I’d been keen to see during our trip was Maison de la Photographie, which is only a 15-minute walk from the gardens and very close to Ben Youssef Madrasa. Again it’s only a small cost to enter, and after a look around the studios, you can grab a bite to eat at the rooftop restaurant. This has some of the best views of the city and mountains, and the spread of food I ordered was honestly excellent.

The rest of the day was spent watching another fiery sunset melt away, eating cous cous at Café Bazaar, and wandering back through the Souks as they were shutting up for the night.

Day four

This wasn’t supposed to be my final day, but sadly I had to swap the flights around and head home 24 hours early.

After a fireside breakfast in the Riad, before the sun had been able to warm the walls, I queued to enter the famous 1910 Bacha Coffee Shop & Café inside the Dar el Bacha Palace. It gets extremely busy here even before opening, but if you love coffee like I do then definitely add it to your itinerary. The menu offers an insane amount of blends that are poured for you in theatrical art, and the Wes Anderson-style surroundings were a bonus.

With just a few hours remaining, I finally plucked up the courage to do some Souk shopping, picking up little trinkets, woven baskets, mirrors, and a large tote bag to take home with me.

Sadly it was time to leave Marrakech, but had I been able to stay a day longer as planned I would have also visited Jardin Majorelle and considered visiting either the Atlas mountains or the Agafay Desert. Next time!

Where I stayed: Pure House Marrakech

Onto the Riads! The first of which was Pure House Marrakech, who kindly invited me to stay for two nights to experience their relatively new and extremely aesthetic Riad.

Located in the heart of the Medina, you’re perfectly central for almost everything you could want to see, and you’d never expect what’s hidden behind that beautiful ornate wooden door after tracing your way down the winding streets.

They kindly offered their largest suite, and it’s safe to say I got a lot of home decor inspo from this earthy-toned, minimalistic room.

I was welcomed with a cup of traditional Moroccan mint tea, and the breakfast on both mornings was absolutely outstanding. I lost count of the amount of items that were served each morning.

Finally, the rooftop terrace and pool proved a perfect spot to listen to the sounds of the distant snake charmers, live music and calls to prayer.

Everyone at Pure House Marrakech was so kind, so I can’t thank them enough for the opportunity to stay. Truthfully, I would revisit this Riad in a heartbeat.

Where I stayed: Riad Jaaneman

I was due to spend two nights here, but of course only managed the one with the change in travel plans.

Riad Jaaneman was gorgeous inside, with towering greenery and a rooftop terrace that I always had to myself. It was also situated in a more peaceful location just outside the Souks, making it easy enough to find your feet on arrival.

Housing just five rooms, the entire experience at Riad Jaaneman was so peaceful you almost felt you were alone there. I’d booked their smallest and most affordable room called Hima, and whilst not quite as luxurious as the suite at Pure House Marrakech, it was very clean and spacious.

The breakfast admittedly was a little on the small side and only really offered a selection of sweet items, but it did the job.

Final thoughts on Marrakech

Marrakech is chaos to navigate and can overpower the senses at first, but it was everything I’d hoped it’d be and more. After just one day, you really feel that you acclimatise to the atmosphere and can begin embracing all that the city has to offer.

And most importantly, a Riad stay is simply a must to experience Marrakech fully.

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January 27 2024

Interrailing in Europe: My Two-Week Itinerary

Katie Merkli Destinations, Germany, Italy, Switzerland Destinations, Europe, Germany, Interrail, Switzerland

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

My holidays usually begin at an airport, but something about the idea of travelling by train always intrigued me. Nothing will replace my love of flying, but the idea of a different type of trip sparked this excitement in me that I hadn’t felt since I spent a month travelling (at speed) around Dubai, Australia and Bali back in 2015.

I spent some time researching the concept of Interrailing, purchased two Global Passes in their January sale, and began planning my two-week adventure through Europe.

Booking the passes

The first big decision was how long our Interrail Global Pass should be. We knew that we wanted to travel for two weeks and see as many places as we could in that time without completely exhausting ourselves, so we settled on the seven-day passes.

This meant we could travel for seven days within a one-month timeframe, taking as many eligible trains as we wanted on each of those seven days, which allowed for connections and longer journeys.

At the time, two passes cost us around £530.

Planning the trip

The planning phase was intense because I love to be organised, so before I knew it I’d built a multi-tab spreadsheet with every fragment of information you could imagine. Thankfully between the Interrail website and social media, we found useful route suggestions and railway maps that made planning our adventure much easier.

When had our route set in stone, had pre-booked as many trains as we possibly could, and secured our accommodation, all that was left to do was plan what to pack.

Our two-week itinerary

Day one: London to Cologne

On Saturday 03 June 2023, our adventure began. But not without a hiccup from yet another British train strike, meaning my poor mum had to drive us to the outskirts of London so we could hop on a tube to St Pancras Station at silly o’clock in the morning.

Our first train was the Eurostar taking us from London to Brussels, which we needed to pay an additional fee for, before connecting onto a second train bound for Cologne, Germany.

The first day was a breeze, and before we knew it we we out exploring a country that was new to us both. We spent one night here, staying at the Urban Loft Hotel which was conveniently located just a short walk from the train station.

Day two: Cologne to Munich

We’d slightly overestimated the time needed in Cologne, but the beauty of the Interrail app is having the option to adjust your train times if needed, so we set off a little earlier than planned and later arrived in Munich with one easy connection on the way.

Giving ourselves approximately 24 hours to explore the city, again we spent just one night here. We booked a room at the beautiful Schwan Locke Aparthotel and made full use of the kitchen facilities to save us from splashing out on restaurant prices.

Days three and four: Munich to Lugano

Our time in Germany was incredibly short, but it gave us a good taste of a different part of Europe. Next on the itinerary was the town of Lugano, marking our second visit to Switzerland having visited Zurich and Schaffhausen a few years ago.

Arriving in Lugano felt worlds apart from the busy German cities prior, and I was relieved to have booked two nights there. Staying at the Flat Iron Apartments with kitchen facilities, again we had a way to keep the costs down in what’s a notoriously pricey country.

If you’re into your lakes and mountains, Lugano will blow you away, and I’d even make the bold claim that it’s better than Lake Como. There’s plenty to explore on foot, and you can take a cable car up to the viewpoint from Monte San Salvatore or catch a boat to one of the nearby towns if you want to see more. We sailed down to a hillside town called Morcote and fell in love with it.

Day five: Lugano to Lake Como and Milan

Today we were heading back to the hustle and bustle, but we broke up the already short train ride into Italy with a lunchtime stroll around Lake Como. It was easy enough to hop off the train, pay a small price to leave our bags at the shop inside the train station (this is an actual thing, not a dodgy deal) and explore somewhere I’d heard plenty about.

A few hours later, we arrived in Milan. We were only spending one night here so booked a hotel near the station, but this meant getting in and out of the centre took up a lot of our limited time. In hindsight, staying closer to the sights might have been easier. I also didn’t like the hotel so I won’t bother sharing it.

Our 30 hours in Milan were spent wandering the streets, eating excellent pizza, and drinking strong Aperol Spritz cocktails to cool off from the intense heatwave that was smothering the city.

Days six and seven: Milan to Venice

Feeling ready to head towards open waters, we caught our late afternoon train across to Venice, somewhere that had been on my bucket list for a long time.

Spending two nights at an apartment called Residence 8 Loft, we were able to get some mid-trip washing done and stock our fridge with a few breakfast and lunch supplies for the days ahead. Travelling isn’t always glamorous.

We potentially crammed a bit too much sightseeing into our visit but managed to cover a huge amount of ground, even taking a few water taxis through the canals and across to neighbouring islands Murano and Burano. We also enjoyed dinner out on both nights, without completely blowing the budget.

Day eight: Venice to Bologna

Onto the place that is home to the best pasta I’ve ever eaten, Bologna. We checked into another new hotel for one night, which I won’t recommend as it was a little too far out, and embarked on a self-guided foodie tour of the city.

We didn’t have long here, but I felt 24 hours was enough to see the sights and consume all the carbs. I fear ragu will never taste as good as that again, which I guess gives me a solid reason to go back.

Day nine: Bologna to Florence

Leaving Bologna behind, we continued onwards to Florence. I’d heard great things about this city, especially if you’re into your wine, and it did not disappoint.

We checked into the Terra Artis Guest House which I loved, and set off in search of lunch, finding a shady spot away from the burning heat of the mid-June sun.

We found a ‘wine wall’ for a fun vino experience, and later walked up to Piazzale Michelangelo with a takeaway pizza in hand for a panoramic sunset view. It gets busy there, but there’s something lovely about watching the sun sink behind the city with a few hundred strangers for company.

Day ten: A day trip to Pisa

In under an hour you can reach Pisa by train, so we booked some cheap individual train tickets and spent a few hours exploring the humid and stormy city, before returning to Florence for you guessed it, more pizza, pasta, and wine.

Day eleven: Florence to Sorrento

This was another long journey, eventually swapping the comfort of a high-speed train for a rickety old thing in Naples, but when you spot Mount Vesuvius on one side and the blue hues of the ocean on the other you quickly realise that the end of your trip is going to be special.

Staying at Dreamers’ Rooms Sorrento for four nights, we could allow ourselves to fully relax in what was our eighth and final hotel of the two-week holiday.

Better still, we just managed to catch the sunset from the viewpoint overlooking the beaches below, before indulging in another Italian feast.

Day twelve: Positano

We’d heard getting the bus to Positano can be difficult because every other tourist in Sorrento is doing the same, but luckily with it being early in the summer season, we didn’t have too much trouble.

The twisty and somewhat precarious journey along the cliffside ended at the very top of the town, forcing us to begin the intense scramble down the many steps, all the while trying not to think too much about having to climb back up again later.

A big storm was on its way, increasing the humidity to an unbearable level and leaving us sitting like statues on the sand, picking at our packed lunches in a desperate attempt to cool down. Thankfully a delicious Amalfi lemon sorbet did the job.

Day thirteen: Sorrento

In desperate need of some downtime and with continued downpours forecast, we had a slow morning and waited for the clouds to clear before renting a couple of sunbeds down at one of the beach clubs. If you don’t want to pay, there is also a small free beach on the other side of the cliff which you can walk to.

We managed a bit of sunbathing and a few dips in the water, before the rain returned and sent us squelching back to the hotel to wash away the salt and suncream.

Day fourteen: Capri

The sun had finally returned, and where better to bask in its warmth than on the isle of Capri? It’s easy and affordable to get a ferry across from Sorrento, giving you the option of anything from a couple of hours to a whole day there.

Sadly I didn’t spot any celebs, but I did love exploring this island before tucking into yet another packed lunch on the beach. Europe is expensive, but Capri takes that up to another level.

Feeling emotional that our trip was coming to an end, we enjoyed one last dinner before repacking our bags for the last time.

Day fifteen: Sorrento to London

We’d need a few more days if we were planning to train it all the way home, so instead we caught the train back to Naples, took a bus to the airport, and boarded our flight to London.

No words can explain how brilliant that trip was. Exhausting and expensive despite the budgeting, but utterly incredible.

Tips for planning your Interrail adventure

Once you have your pass, download the Interrail app, link your pass, and search for your trains on there
You might need to book some trains outside of your pass depending on the route you’re taking, but try to plan it logically to avoid extra costs
For some trains you will also need to pay a small fee for pre-booked seats, but those will be highlighted clearly to you
Be mindful that not all trains have Wi-Fi, so you might need to use your mobile data now and then to access your tickets on the app
I can’t advise on what to pack without knowing where you’re going, but I would suggest using a good backpack instead of a suitcase purely for ease when getting on and off trains
Don’t overpack as you can always do some washing on the trip
Plan as much as you can before you go so you can maximise your time in each place
Don’t be put off by difficult weather, Europe can be unpredictable even in the height of summer
Print out all your important documents and upload a copy of them to somewhere like Google Drive
Having a language translator app to hand can be useful when you’re in a rush and trying to find your train
Be aware that train platforms can change quickly and the data doesn’t always match what it says on the Interrail app

I really hope this has been helpful. If there’s anything I’ve missed, don’t hesitate to reach out!

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January 6 2024

A Winter Road Trip in Iceland

Katie Merkli Destinations, Germany, Italy, Switzerland Destinations, Europe, Germany, Interrail, Switzerland

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

I don’t often return to the same place twice mainly because there’s so much world out there to see, but certain places end up holding a special place in your heart. For me one of those is Iceland.

March 2019 marked my first (and unforgettable) trip north. We didn’t stay for long enough, we tried to do it so cheap that we only ate two hot service station meals and supermarket snacks in four days, and we exhausted ourselves by cramming too much into too few hours. But I’ve never once regretted anything about that trip because it confirmed that I had to go back one day.

This time around things were more spontaneous, a way of travelling I’ve only adopted since working in aviation, so just three weeks before Christmas I Googled “the best places to spend New Year’s Eve” and Iceland kept coming out on top due to their wild firework-focused celebrations.

I snapped up some flights which had conveniently dropped in price, booked a five-night stay at Grandi by Center Hotels, and began sifting through my stash of thermals…

Day one in Iceland: Reykjavik

We flew out on my birthday, and honestly I had the time of my life above the clouds with a tiny bottle of Prosecco and a sunrise view that chased us the whole way there. You can see more from that flight on my Instagram.

By the time we landed the sun was only just rising for the day, because visiting the north in winter means limited daylight. During our trip we only had around four solid hours to play with, so we swiftly collected the keys for our hire car (keep reading for car hire advice) and hit the road, Reykjavik bound.

Once we’d checked into our hotel and layered up, our first stop was Brikk Bakery across the road. Pizza rolls and cinnamon buns make a great birthday lunch, FYI. As the hotel was located on the edge of the city, we spent the last remaining hours of daylight exploring the water’s edge and trudging through the deep snow.

Hack: you’ll find a lot of happy hour offers in the city, but you can save further by packing some bubbly in your suitcase. We popped a bottle in the room before heading out to Grandi Matholl for dinner, a food hall that had an array of street food options which thankfully didn’t break the bank half as much as other Icelandic restaurants would.

Day two in Iceland: The Golden Circle

This is a popular driving route, and with good reason as it’s not too far from Reykjavik. We completed The Golden Circle on our first visit also, but this time the landscape was layered in several feet of that gorgeous squeaky snow that you can spend hours getting lost in.

We filled up at the breakfast buffet, slipping some extra sandwich supplies into our bags to see us through lunch, and headed east so we’d arrive at our first stop as the sun was rising. On that note, not all stops on the route will be worth seeing so be sure to research every route before you set off.

We started our day in Thingvellier National Park, before visiting Geysir, Gullfoss, Kerio Crater, and ending in Selfoss for dinner at Tommis’ Burger Joint. There’s a ton more you can see with more hours of daylight, but these are key sights of the Golden Circle in winter (minus the burger place, of course).

Day three in Iceland: Sky Lagoon and the Reykjanes Pensinsular

Our third day was the last of 2023, so we splurged on a spa day with a difference. Previously we visited the Blue Lagoon which I loved, but as it was closed due to nearby volcanic activity this prompted us to try another. Although manmade, the Sky Lagoon experience just south of Reykjavik is dreamy.

There are different packages available, but as it was so busy we only had the option of the top package called Sky which includes access to the lagoon and the seven-step ritual. Some say it’s not worth the extra money, but personally I enjoyed the saunas and scrub. Not so much the cold water plunge, however. You can also get a costly drink from the swim-up bar, normally I would skip this but as it was NYE it felt appropriate to sip on sparkling wine whilst submerged in the steam.

We spent roughly three hours here and then set our sights on the Reykjanes Pensinsular. A few roads were still closed because of the recent eruption, but eventually we found ourselves at Kleifarvatn Lake and the Seltun Geothermal Area. These two spots ended up being my favourite of the entire trip.

As the sun began to set on 2023 in the most insane burst of golden pink, we ventured back to Reykjavik to get ready for the New Year’s celebrations. It’s hard to put this experience into words, but expect fireworks every second of the evening from sundown until the sun is ready to rise again. Head to the church on the hill for the biggest displays, all set off by locals, but keep your wits about you as there is absolutely no health and safety involved here. See more from that night on my TikTok.

Day four in Iceland: the Snaefellsness Peninsular

Whilst most were nursing sore heads, we were up 06:30 ready to drive north. The Snaefellsness Peninsular is again a route we’ve driven before. but realistically you’d need a lot more time in Iceland or a base elsewhere if you wanted to see entirely different sights every time. For context, driving from one side of Iceland to the other takes almost an entire day without stopping.

We stopped at a few of the key tourist hotspots along the way, such as Ytri Tunga beach (often home to seals) and Budir to see the photographic black Church set in front of the mountains, before circling on round to the star of the show – Kurkjufell Mountain. Both in 2019 and 2023 we were only able to see this mountain through thick falling snow, but on a clear day it’s meant to be a stunner.

The weather really turned at this point, so we continued on the loop before tucking into fish & chips back in Reykjavik (at a whopping cost of £39) before attempting to see the Northern Lights. Again I’ll share more tips on this later in the post, but we managed to spot a faint display from the edge of the city which was the cherry on top of an already amazing holiday.

Day five in Iceland: exploring the South Coast

For our final full day in Iceland we travelled south, stopping at some of the most impressive waterfalls: Urridafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Gljufrabui, Skogafoss and Kvernufoss. Pulling into a car park to see the wild horses on the way, we continued onto the black sand beaches of the south found at Reynisfjara Beach and in the town of Vik. Be careful of the sneaker waves here.

If you have more time you can also visit the plane wreck of Solheimafjara, but as we’d seen this previously and it was too dark for the long beach walk, we decided to skip it this time. Instead, we drove back through Selfoss and enjoyed more street food from The Old Dairy Food Hall.

Sadly that marked the end of our five-day winter road trip in Iceland and we caught our flight home the next morning, but not without a send off from the tectonic plates that decided to shift as we were boarding!

Below you can find all my tips and advice on driving in Iceland, what to pack and spotting the Northern Lights, but don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions.

Things to know about hiring a car in Iceland

It’s a great option to save on numerous excursions, and to have the freedom of going wherever you please
There are plenty of good companies to book with, this time around we booked with Budget
You can usually collect and return the car from the airport, or Reykjavik depending on what suits you better
Get the full insurance, it’s pricier but having hired two cars in Iceland I can assure you it’s worth it just in case
Fill the car with layers, emergency items, water, and snacks
Get fuel before every long journey, sometimes you might not see a station for a while and (trust me) that’s a scary feeling
Read up on the rules of the road beforehand, such as national speed limits and weather related warnings
Keep an eye on the every-changing conditions at www.road.is
Map out your route before your leave, often there aren’t easy places to stop for long periods of time

What to pack for a winter trip to Iceland

Thermal tops and leggings for each day
Snow trousers or similar, and a few basic jumpers or thick tops, to cover your thermals
Warm hats, proper winter gloves, and a cosy scarf and buff
Proper walking boots and thick thermal socks to wear inside, other shoes for non-exploring activities
Ice grips for your boots
A thick waterproof coat, and a thinner base coat to wear underneath
A few safety items such as a torch, thermal blanket, and power bank
Your camera, lenses, tripod, memory cards and charger, if you’re into your photography
Swimwear, if you plan to visit a spa or geothermal pool
Your usual skin and hair care, with plenty of lip balm, face and body moisturiser as you’ll dry out from the harsh conditions
Sunglasses, because that low winter sunlight can be blinding
An umbrella for those rainy days, just hold onto it tightly

How to spot and capture the northern lights in Iceland

Check local apps and websites such as Aurora, the higher the KP Index the more likely you are to see them, plus you can also see local sighting reports and predictions for the nights ahead
Find a dark and remote spot to see them, a lot of people flock to the lighthouse in Reykjavik which is often a good base despite the bright car lights driving in and out
Avoid looking at any light, stay off your phone and keep your eyes on the sky so they can adjust properly
If you’re taking photos on your iPhone, rest your phone somewhere stable and use night mode to take a long-exposure photo
If you’re taking photos on your DSLR or mirrorless camera, set it up on a tripod and play with the settings to capture the best version of the lights you’ll ever see (a quick Google will guide you on the rough settings)
If they’re not blindingly strong, look for whispy clouds that change shape frequently and chances are it’s the aurora
If in doubt book a northern lights excursion, we did this in 2019 and had a great experience

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