Europe

April 10 2024

Four Days Exploring Marrakech

Katie Merkli Destinations, Morocco, Stays Destinations, Europe, Germany, Interrail, Switzerland

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

Ad: For this post I collaborated with a hotel on a PR stay basis, however all I’ve shared is an honest representation of my experience.

Marrakech is a destination that’s been on my bucket list for a very (very) long time. I nearly made it there once before, but finally 2024 was the year I got to set foot in the city that is like nowhere I’ve explored before.

There’s a lot to see in Marrakech so of course I didn’t quite manage it all during my four-day visit, but I have shared everything I got up to during my whirlwind February holiday that might help you when it comes to planning your own trip.

Day one

My flight landed into Marrakech Ménara Airport early afternoon and I headed straight to my first of two Riad stays — more on those later!

Once checked in, lunch was top of the list. I stopped at the nearby Salama Loft restaurant and feasted on the most unbelievable orange and almond chicken tagine (still not done raving about it) with a side of hummus and flatbread. This isn’t your cheapest spot for food, but the fourth-floor views spanning across the city are worth the extra Dirhams.

Immersing myself in the hustle and bustle below, I did a lap of Jemaa el-Fnaa square before spending the afternoon getting lost in the neverending maze of souks.

By getting lost, I accidentally stumbled across somewhere I had bookmarked to visit another day: Ben Youssef Madrasa. Paying only a small fee to enter just before closing time, the last of the sunshine hours were spent admiring the stunning tiling and architecture with only a few other tourists for company.

The lunchtime tagine was a distant memory by then, so in search of more food I settled upon Bakchich Café back near the square, tucking into a lemon and olive chicken tagine with chicken couscous.

Day two

After feasting on a breakfast that included an unbelievable spread of delicious local delicacies, I headed south in search of Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both required a small entry fee, but they offered something quite different. I found Bahia Palace the more beautiful of the two, because of its serene surrounding gardens.

Noon quickly came around, so I explored the Jewish Mellah district and stopped by Kech Badi for a lunch of falafel pittas and kebabs. The day was still young, so I pulled up a chair at Pergola Restaurant & Bar for a cocktail made with the fresh oranges that I saw hanging from the trees that lined the streets.

After a quick stop at Parque Kutubia where the scent of blossoming Neroli literally stopped me in my tracks, I lazed the rest of the afternoon away on the rooftop of my Riad.

The sun soon set upon Morocco, and I ended my first full day trying a few local dishes at Zeit un Café. The service was pretty poor, but I wasn’t in any rush to leave and instead enjoyed the sights, sounds, and scents from the square below.

Day three

Following one last dreamy breakfast, I reluctantly left my Riad ready to check into another for the remaining two nights of the trip.

I’d organised a tuk-tuk transfer through the previous Riad, but unfortunately a nearby shop owner caught wind of the complicated route and insisted on being the guide for what became an awkward luggage-loaded hike through the Medina. Long story short, someone who worked at the Riad joined for safety, but the local of course wanted paying off at the other end. It didn’t cost much in the end, but I was just glad to be rid of him.

Once comfortably checked into my second Riad, first on the agenda was the nearby sanctuary, Le Jardin Secret. This was slightly more expensive to enter but still very affordable, and a gorgeous place to relax in what felt like a true oasis of the Medina.

A place I’d been keen to see during our trip was Maison de la Photographie, which is only a 15-minute walk from the gardens and very close to Ben Youssef Madrasa. Again it’s only a small cost to enter, and after a look around the studios, you can grab a bite to eat at the rooftop restaurant. This has some of the best views of the city and mountains, and the spread of food I ordered was honestly excellent.

The rest of the day was spent watching another fiery sunset melt away, eating cous cous at Café Bazaar, and wandering back through the Souks as they were shutting up for the night.

Day four

This wasn’t supposed to be my final day, but sadly I had to swap the flights around and head home 24 hours early.

After a fireside breakfast in the Riad, before the sun had been able to warm the walls, I queued to enter the famous 1910 Bacha Coffee Shop & Café inside the Dar el Bacha Palace. It gets extremely busy here even before opening, but if you love coffee like I do then definitely add it to your itinerary. The menu offers an insane amount of blends that are poured for you in theatrical art, and the Wes Anderson-style surroundings were a bonus.

With just a few hours remaining, I finally plucked up the courage to do some Souk shopping, picking up little trinkets, woven baskets, mirrors, and a large tote bag to take home with me.

Sadly it was time to leave Marrakech, but had I been able to stay a day longer as planned I would have also visited Jardin Majorelle and considered visiting either the Atlas mountains or the Agafay Desert. Next time!

Where I stayed: Pure House Marrakech

Onto the Riads! The first of which was Pure House Marrakech, who kindly invited me to stay for two nights to experience their relatively new and extremely aesthetic Riad.

Located in the heart of the Medina, you’re perfectly central for almost everything you could want to see, and you’d never expect what’s hidden behind that beautiful ornate wooden door after tracing your way down the winding streets.

They kindly offered their largest suite, and it’s safe to say I got a lot of home decor inspo from this earthy-toned, minimalistic room.

I was welcomed with a cup of traditional Moroccan mint tea, and the breakfast on both mornings was absolutely outstanding. I lost count of the amount of items that were served each morning.

Finally, the rooftop terrace and pool proved a perfect spot to listen to the sounds of the distant snake charmers, live music and calls to prayer.

Everyone at Pure House Marrakech was so kind, so I can’t thank them enough for the opportunity to stay. Truthfully, I would revisit this Riad in a heartbeat.

Where I stayed: Riad Jaaneman

I was due to spend two nights here, but of course only managed the one with the change in travel plans.

Riad Jaaneman was gorgeous inside, with towering greenery and a rooftop terrace that I always had to myself. It was also situated in a more peaceful location just outside the Souks, making it easy enough to find your feet on arrival.

Housing just five rooms, the entire experience at Riad Jaaneman was so peaceful you almost felt you were alone there. I’d booked their smallest and most affordable room called Hima, and whilst not quite as luxurious as the suite at Pure House Marrakech, it was very clean and spacious.

The breakfast admittedly was a little on the small side and only really offered a selection of sweet items, but it did the job.

Final thoughts on Marrakech

Marrakech is chaos to navigate and can overpower the senses at first, but it was everything I’d hoped it’d be and more. After just one day, you really feel that you acclimatise to the atmosphere and can begin embracing all that the city has to offer.

And most importantly, a Riad stay is simply a must to experience Marrakech fully.

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January 27 2024

Interrailing in Europe: My Two-Week Itinerary

Katie Merkli Destinations, Germany, Italy, Switzerland Destinations, Europe, Germany, Interrail, Switzerland

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

My holidays usually begin at an airport, but something about the idea of travelling by train always intrigued me. Nothing will replace my love of flying, but the idea of a different type of trip sparked this excitement in me that I hadn’t felt since I spent a month travelling (at speed) around Dubai, Australia and Bali back in 2015.

I spent some time researching the concept of Interrailing, purchased two Global Passes in their January sale, and began planning my two-week adventure through Europe.

Booking the passes

The first big decision was how long our Interrail Global Pass should be. We knew that we wanted to travel for two weeks and see as many places as we could in that time without completely exhausting ourselves, so we settled on the seven-day passes.

This meant we could travel for seven days within a one-month timeframe, taking as many eligible trains as we wanted on each of those seven days, which allowed for connections and longer journeys.

At the time, two passes cost us around £530.

Planning the trip

The planning phase was intense because I love to be organised, so before I knew it I’d built a multi-tab spreadsheet with every fragment of information you could imagine. Thankfully between the Interrail website and social media, we found useful route suggestions and railway maps that made planning our adventure much easier.

When had our route set in stone, had pre-booked as many trains as we possibly could, and secured our accommodation, all that was left to do was plan what to pack.

Our two-week itinerary

Day one: London to Cologne

On Saturday 03 June 2023, our adventure began. But not without a hiccup from yet another British train strike, meaning my poor mum had to drive us to the outskirts of London so we could hop on a tube to St Pancras Station at silly o’clock in the morning.

Our first train was the Eurostar taking us from London to Brussels, which we needed to pay an additional fee for, before connecting onto a second train bound for Cologne, Germany.

The first day was a breeze, and before we knew it we we out exploring a country that was new to us both. We spent one night here, staying at the Urban Loft Hotel which was conveniently located just a short walk from the train station.

Day two: Cologne to Munich

We’d slightly overestimated the time needed in Cologne, but the beauty of the Interrail app is having the option to adjust your train times if needed, so we set off a little earlier than planned and later arrived in Munich with one easy connection on the way.

Giving ourselves approximately 24 hours to explore the city, again we spent just one night here. We booked a room at the beautiful Schwan Locke Aparthotel and made full use of the kitchen facilities to save us from splashing out on restaurant prices.

Days three and four: Munich to Lugano

Our time in Germany was incredibly short, but it gave us a good taste of a different part of Europe. Next on the itinerary was the town of Lugano, marking our second visit to Switzerland having visited Zurich and Schaffhausen a few years ago.

Arriving in Lugano felt worlds apart from the busy German cities prior, and I was relieved to have booked two nights there. Staying at the Flat Iron Apartments with kitchen facilities, again we had a way to keep the costs down in what’s a notoriously pricey country.

If you’re into your lakes and mountains, Lugano will blow you away, and I’d even make the bold claim that it’s better than Lake Como. There’s plenty to explore on foot, and you can take a cable car up to the viewpoint from Monte San Salvatore or catch a boat to one of the nearby towns if you want to see more. We sailed down to a hillside town called Morcote and fell in love with it.

Day five: Lugano to Lake Como and Milan

Today we were heading back to the hustle and bustle, but we broke up the already short train ride into Italy with a lunchtime stroll around Lake Como. It was easy enough to hop off the train, pay a small price to leave our bags at the shop inside the train station (this is an actual thing, not a dodgy deal) and explore somewhere I’d heard plenty about.

A few hours later, we arrived in Milan. We were only spending one night here so booked a hotel near the station, but this meant getting in and out of the centre took up a lot of our limited time. In hindsight, staying closer to the sights might have been easier. I also didn’t like the hotel so I won’t bother sharing it.

Our 30 hours in Milan were spent wandering the streets, eating excellent pizza, and drinking strong Aperol Spritz cocktails to cool off from the intense heatwave that was smothering the city.

Days six and seven: Milan to Venice

Feeling ready to head towards open waters, we caught our late afternoon train across to Venice, somewhere that had been on my bucket list for a long time.

Spending two nights at an apartment called Residants 8 Loft, we were able to get some mid-trip washing done and stock our fridge with a few breakfast and lunch supplies for the days ahead. Travelling isn’t always glamorous.

We potentially crammed a bit too much sightseeing into our visit but managed to cover a huge amount of ground, even taking a few water taxis through the canals and across to neighbouring islands Murano and Burano. We also enjoyed dinner out on both nights, without completely blowing the budget.

Day eight: Venice to Bologna

Onto the place that is home to the best pasta I’ve ever eaten, Bologna. We checked into another new hotel for one night, which I won’t recommend as it was a little too far out, and embarked on a self-guided foodie tour of the city.

We didn’t have long here, but I felt 24 hours was enough to see the sights and consume all the carbs. I fear ragu will never taste as good as that again, which I guess gives me a solid reason to go back.

Day nine: Bologna to Florence

Leaving Bologna behind, we continued onwards to Florence. I’d heard great things about this city, especially if you’re into your wine, and it did not disappoint.

We checked into the Terra Artis Guest House which I loved, and set off in search of lunch, finding a shady spot away from the burning heat of the mid-June sun.

We found a ‘wine wall’ for a fun vino experience, and later walked up to Piazzale Michelangelo with a takeaway pizza in hand for a panoramic sunset view. It gets busy there, but there’s something lovely about watching the sun sink behind the city with a few hundred strangers for company.

Day ten: A day trip to Pisa

In under an hour you can reach Pisa by train, so we booked some cheap individual train tickets and spent a few hours exploring the humid and stormy city, before returning to Florence for you guessed it, more pizza, pasta, and wine.

Day eleven: Florence to Sorrento

This was another long journey, eventually swapping the comfort of a high-speed train for a rickety old thing in Naples, but when you spot Mount Vesuvius on one side and the blue hues of the ocean on the other you quickly realise that the end of your trip is going to be special.

Staying at Dreamers’ Rooms Sorrento for four nights, we could allow ourselves to fully relax in what was our eighth and final hotel of the two-week holiday.

Better still, we just managed to catch the sunset from the viewpoint overlooking the beaches below, before indulging in another Italian feast.

Day twelve: Positano

We’d heard getting the bus to Positano can be difficult because every other tourist in Sorrento is doing the same, but luckily with it being early in the summer season, we didn’t have too much trouble.

The twisty and somewhat precarious journey along the cliffside ended at the very top of the town, forcing us to begin the intense scramble down the many steps, all the while trying not to think too much about having to climb back up again later.

A big storm was on its way, increasing the humidity to an unbearable level and leaving us sitting like statues on the sand, picking at our packed lunches in a desperate attempt to cool down. Thankfully a delicious Amalfi lemon sorbet did the job.

Day thirteen: Sorrento

In desperate need of some downtime and with continued downpours forecast, we had a slow morning and waited for the clouds to clear before renting a couple of sunbeds down at one of the beach clubs. If you don’t want to pay, there is also a small free beach on the other side of the cliff which you can walk to.

We managed a bit of sunbathing and a few dips in the water, before the rain returned and sent us squelching back to the hotel to wash away the salt and suncream.

Day fourteen: Capri

The sun had finally returned, and where better to bask in its warmth than on the isle of Capri? It’s easy and affordable to get a ferry across from Sorrento, giving you the option of anything from a couple of hours to a whole day there.

Sadly I didn’t spot any celebs, but I did love exploring this island before tucking into yet another packed lunch on the beach. Europe is expensive, but Capri takes that up to another level.

Feeling emotional that our trip was coming to an end, we enjoyed one last dinner before repacking our bags for the last time.

Day fifteen: Sorrento to London

We’d need a few more days if we were planning to train it all the way home, so instead we caught the train back to Naples, took a bus to the airport, and boarded our flight to London.

No words can explain how brilliant that trip was. Exhausting and expensive despite the budgeting, but utterly incredible.

Tips for planning your Interrail adventure

Once you have your pass, download the Interrail app, link your pass, and search for your trains on there
You might need to book some trains outside of your pass depending on the route you’re taking, but try to plan it logically to avoid extra costs
For some trains you will also need to pay a small fee for pre-booked seats, but those will be highlighted clearly to you
Be mindful that not all trains have Wi-Fi, so you might need to use your mobile data now and then to access your tickets on the app
I can’t advise on what to pack without knowing where you’re going, but I would suggest using a good backpack instead of a suitcase purely for ease when getting on and off trains
Don’t overpack as you can always do some washing on the trip
Plan as much as you can before you go so you can maximise your time in each place
Don’t be put off by difficult weather, Europe can be unpredictable even in the height of summer
Print out all your important documents and upload a copy of them to somewhere like Google Drive
Having a language translator app to hand can be useful when you’re in a rush and trying to find your train
Be aware that train platforms can change quickly and the data doesn’t always match what it says on the Interrail app

I really hope this has been helpful. If there’s anything I’ve missed, don’t hesitate to reach out!

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January 6 2024

A Winter Road Trip in Iceland

Katie Merkli Destinations, Germany, Italy, Switzerland Destinations, Europe, Germany, Interrail, Switzerland

This post contains affiliate links for destinations and hotels, this means if you make a booking via my link, I will receive a small amount of commission at no extra cost to you.

I don’t often return to the same place twice mainly because there’s so much world out there to see, but certain places end up holding a special place in your heart. For me one of those is Iceland.

March 2019 marked my first (and unforgettable) trip north. We didn’t stay for long enough, we tried to do it so cheap that we only ate two hot service station meals and supermarket snacks in four days, and we exhausted ourselves by cramming too much into too few hours. But I’ve never once regretted anything about that trip because it confirmed that I had to go back one day.

This time around things were more spontaneous, a way of travelling I’ve only adopted since working in aviation, so just three weeks before Christmas I Googled “the best places to spend New Year’s Eve” and Iceland kept coming out on top due to their wild firework-focused celebrations.

I snapped up some flights which had conveniently dropped in price, booked a five-night stay at Grandi by Center Hotels, and began sifting through my stash of thermals…

Browse hotels in Reykjavik

Day one in Iceland: Reykjavik

We flew out on my birthday, and honestly I had the time of my life above the clouds with a tiny bottle of Prosecco and a sunrise view that chased us the whole way there. You can see more from that flight on my Instagram.

By the time we landed the sun was only just rising for the day, because visiting the north in winter means limited daylight. During our trip we only had around four solid hours to play with, so we swiftly collected the keys for our hire car (keep reading for car hire advice) and hit the road, Reykjavik bound.

Once we’d checked into our hotel and layered up, our first stop was Brikk Bakery across the road. Pizza rolls and cinnamon buns make a great birthday lunch, FYI. As the hotel was located on the edge of the city, we spent the last remaining hours of daylight exploring the water’s edge and trudging through the deep snow.

Hack: you’ll find a lot of happy hour offers in the city, but you can save further by packing some bubbly in your suitcase. We popped a bottle in the room before heading out to Grandi Matholl for dinner, a food hall that had an array of street food options which thankfully didn’t break the bank half as much as other Icelandic restaurants would.

Day two in Iceland: The Golden Circle

This is a popular driving route, and with good reason as it’s not too far from Reykjavik. We completed The Golden Circle on our first visit also, but this time the landscape was layered in several feet of that gorgeous squeaky snow that you can spend hours getting lost in.

We filled up at the breakfast buffet, slipping some extra sandwich supplies into our bags to see us through lunch, and headed east so we’d arrive at our first stop as the sun was rising. On that note, not all stops on the route will be worth seeing so be sure to research every route before you set off.

We started our day in Thingvellier National Park, before visiting Geysir, Gullfoss, Kerio Crater, and ending in Selfoss for dinner at Tommis’ Burger Joint. There’s a ton more you can see with more hours of daylight, but these are key sights of the Golden Circle in winter (minus the burger place, of course).

Day three in Iceland: Sky Lagoon and the Reykjanes Pensinsular

Our third day was the last of 2023, so we splurged on a spa day with a difference. Previously we visited the Blue Lagoon which I loved, but as it was closed due to nearby volcanic activity this prompted us to try another. Although manmade, the Sky Lagoon experience just south of Reykjavik is dreamy.

There are different packages available, but as it was so busy we only had the option of the top package called Sky which includes access to the lagoon and the seven-step ritual. Some say it’s not worth the extra money, but personally I enjoyed the saunas and scrub. Not so much the cold water plunge, however. You can also get a costly drink from the swim-up bar, normally I would skip this but as it was NYE it felt appropriate to sip on sparkling wine whilst submerged in the steam.

We spent roughly three hours here and then set our sights on the Reykjanes Pensinsular. A few roads were still closed because of the recent eruption, but eventually we found ourselves at Kleifarvatn Lake and the Seltun Geothermal Area. These two spots ended up being my favourite of the entire trip.

As the sun began to set on 2023 in the most insane burst of golden pink, we ventured back to Reykjavik to get ready for the New Year’s celebrations. It’s hard to put this experience into words, but expect fireworks every second of the evening from sundown until the sun is ready to rise again. Head to the church on the hill for the biggest displays, all set off by locals, but keep your wits about you as there is absolutely no health and safety involved here. See more from that night on my TikTok.

Day four in Iceland: the Snaefellsness Peninsular

Whilst most were nursing sore heads, we were up 06:30 ready to drive north. The Snaefellsness Peninsular is again a route we’ve driven before. but realistically you’d need a lot more time in Iceland or a base elsewhere if you wanted to see entirely different sights every time. For context, driving from one side of Iceland to the other takes almost an entire day without stopping.

We stopped at a few of the key tourist hotspots along the way, such as Ytri Tunga beach (often home to seals) and Budir to see the photographic black Church set in front of the mountains, before circling on round to the star of the show – Kurkjufell Mountain. Both in 2019 and 2023 we were only able to see this mountain through thick falling snow, but on a clear day it’s meant to be a stunner.

The weather really turned at this point, so we continued on the loop before tucking into fish & chips back in Reykjavik (at a whopping cost of £39) before attempting to see the Northern Lights. Again I’ll share more tips on this later in the post, but we managed to spot a faint display from the edge of the city which was the cherry on top of an already amazing holiday.

Day five in Iceland: exploring the South Coast

For our final full day in Iceland we travelled south, stopping at some of the most impressive waterfalls: Urridafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Gljufrabui, Skogafoss and Kvernufoss. Pulling into a car park to see the wild horses on the way, we continued onto the black sand beaches of the south found at Reynisfjara Beach and in the town of Vik. Be careful of the sneaker waves here.

If you have more time you can also visit the plane wreck of Solheimafjara, but as we’d seen this previously and it was too dark for the long beach walk, we decided to skip it this time. Instead, we drove back through Selfoss and enjoyed more street food from The Old Dairy Food Hall.

Sadly that marked the end of our five-day winter road trip in Iceland and we caught our flight home the next morning, but not without a send off from the tectonic plates that decided to shift as we were boarding!

Below you can find all my tips and advice on driving in Iceland, what to pack and spotting the Northern Lights, but don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions.

Things to know about hiring a car in Iceland

It’s a great option to save on numerous excursions, and to have the freedom of going wherever you please
There are plenty of good companies to book with, this time around we booked with Budget
You can usually collect and return the car from the airport, or Reykjavik depending on what suits you better
Get the full insurance, it’s pricier but having hired two cars in Iceland I can assure you it’s worth it just in case
Fill the car with layers, emergency items, water, and snacks
Get fuel before every long journey, sometimes you might not see a station for a while and (trust me) that’s a scary feeling
Read up on the rules of the road beforehand, such as national speed limits and weather related warnings
Keep an eye on the every-changing conditions at www.road.is
Map out your route before your leave, often there aren’t easy places to stop for long periods of time

What to pack for a winter trip to Iceland

Thermal tops and leggings for each day
Snow trousers or similar, and a few basic jumpers or thick tops, to cover your thermals
Warm hats, proper winter gloves, and a cosy scarf and buff
Proper walking boots and thick thermal socks to wear inside, other shoes for non-exploring activities
Ice grips for your boots
A thick waterproof coat, and a thinner base coat to wear underneath
A few safety items such as a torch, thermal blanket, and power bank
Your camera, lenses, tripod, memory cards and charger, if you’re into your photography
Swimwear, if you plan to visit a spa or geothermal pool
Your usual skin and hair care, with plenty of lip balm, face and body moisturiser as you’ll dry out from the harsh conditions
Sunglasses, because that low winter sunlight can be blinding
An umbrella for those rainy days, just hold onto it tightly

How to spot and capture the northern lights in Iceland

Check local apps and websites such as Aurora, the higher the KP Index the more likely you are to see them, plus you can also see local sighting reports and predictions for the nights ahead
Find a dark and remote spot to see them, a lot of people flock to the lighthouse in Reykjavik which is often a good base despite the bright car lights driving in and out
Avoid looking at any light, stay off your phone and keep your eyes on the sky so they can adjust properly
If you’re taking photos on your iPhone, rest your phone somewhere stable and use night mode to take a long-exposure photo
If you’re taking photos on your DSLR or mirrorless camera, set it up on a tripod and play with the settings to capture the best version of the lights you’ll ever see (a quick Google will guide you on the rough settings)
If they’re not blindingly strong, look for whispy clouds that change shape frequently and chances are it’s the aurora
If in doubt book a northern lights excursion, we did this in 2019 and had a great experience